Seahouses and Farne Islands

Nicole's birthday and a local public holiday fell across the same weekend. We decided to get away for a couple of nights down in Northumberland. Familiar territory for us. We booked two nights in a wigwam on a campsite just outside Seahouses - a small coastal town just a short drive from Bamburgh. Leaving early on a Saturday Morning, we headed down a quiet A1, making our usual pit-stop at the retail park near Dunbar. Suitably refreshed, the journey to Seahouses proceeded painlessly and we pulled in at Budel Bay en route. A few ducks and waders were present but the vast intertidal expanse was mostly deserted.

A little further down the coast, we took the opportunity to drive across the causeway towards Holy Island. The magical landscape is captivating and you can see the pilgrim route marked out by wooden poles on the sand flats. After a quick turnaround on the island itself, we paused in a lay-by on the return leg. You really have the sense of being among the birds, rather than viewing them from the shore. In Seahouses, we parked up and wandered down to the harbour. The main focus for today was a boat cruise around the Farne Islands, which included an hour of exploration time upon Inner Farne. Our sailing was due to depart around lunchtime and we collected our boarding tickets. Having National Trust memberships meant the island landing fee was waived. We took a packed lunch on to the busy open-deck craft. It was a case of grabbing a bench seat wherever you could find a suitable place. The weather was somewhat unsettled but fortunately the conditions remained dry for the duration of our voyage. The Farne archipelago is a nature reserve of special scientific interest - home to one of the most significant seabird breeding colonies in the UK. Comprising inner and outer groups, separated by Staple Sound, there are no permanent residents and the islands are owned by the National Trust. A handful of employed rangers live on site for nine months of the year, retreating to the mainland during the winter. As we approached our destination, various seabirds flew by the boat, or bobbed in the surrounding water. This was a mere taster. Tall vertical cliffs came into view and the ledges were crammed with breeding guillemots, razorbills and kittiwakes. Each nesting pair has its own rigidly defined slice of territory. Amazingly, the eggs have evolved into a shape that doesn't roll easily if accidently kicked. It was a noisy and spectacular sight. The maritime nature reserve is also home to a large colony of grey seals. Around 2000 pups are born here every year. We sailed right by a few adults, reclining on the rocks. It always looks as if they lead a leisurely life. The population here has been monitored continuously since 1951. We docked on Inner Farne and the path from the pier took us right by a tern breeding colony. They nest on open ground and don't take too kindly to intruders straying close to the vulnerable chicks. We had been advised upon booking to wear a sturdy hat and this proved to be sound advice as an adult bird landed on top of my head and gave me a good old peck, much to Nicole's amusement, capturing the incident on camera for posterity. Sometimes it's not an advantage to stand out as the tallest person in a crowd!

A wooden boardwalk took us right past an occupied eider duck nest. A rope cordon had been set up to ensure some breathing space for the young family. Multiple paths fanned out across the grass and we explored the small island, encountering puffins on numerous occasions. The spotting process was remarkably simple - look around and point. Puffin broods live in fragile burrows and it was strictly forbidden to leaved the marked pedestrian routes. The colourful visitors start to arrive around the end of March and will typically commence breeding activity in May. The adults face the threat of attack from gulls when bringing back a beak load of food for the offspring. By mid-August, most of the puffin population will be gone from the island, having headed out to sea. There were good viewpoints looking towards the cliffs and we took in the general cacophony on display. An hour soon slips away but it was sufficient time to become acquainted with the seabird population and take pictures. Back on the boat, we saw more seals and then sailed around Longstone Island, with its imposing lighthouse, scene of a daring maritime rescue in 1838. We would learn more about this heroic tale at the Grace Darling Museum in two days time. Chugging back to the mainland, we felt lucky to have escaped the rain as the sky wasn't looking too promising. It had been a worthwhile trip with plenty to see. You always get your money's worth when puffins are in the neighbourhood. Back at the harbour, we each bought a tub of large whelks from a seafood stall but the rubbery texture wasn't to Nicole's liking, meaning an extra portion for me! We had a brief look around a couple of shops in town. I bought a couple of local ales and we purchased some supplies to take back to the local campsite. A heavy shower began to fall just as we drove off. We had booked a basic wooden wigwam but had full use of the communal on-site kitchen and dining space. Our accommodation was spacious enough for two people and the bench seating converted into beds. A small fridge and a kettle were also provided. The toilet block was just a short walk away. After a hot meal, we settled in for the evening. Birding expedition already completed, the next day was a quiet affair with the highlight being Nicole's birthday meal in the early evening. We had booked a table at The Potted Lobster, an award-winning seafood restaurant in nearby Bamburgh. We spent some time wandering along the beach, while the mighty Bamburgh Castle loomed above in its commanding position. I've written about the fortification in previous entries and it's just a few miles off the A1. A very worthy detour if you're ever heading that way with some slack in your schedule. We arrived for our meal and - unbelievably - were seated adjacent to one of my colleagues, Fiona, and her partner. Her classroom is just along the corridor from mine. As it was a special occasion, we plumped for the shared seafood platter as the main course. I warmed up with a beetroot salad and local cask ale before the feast was placed on the table. We tucked into the multiple marine delights, served with sides of chips, crusty bread and salad. I awarded a solid score of 8/10. A nice place to treat yourself, no doubt about that.

Back at the wigwam, I soon had a fire blazing with logs I had purchased at the site shop. Nicole retired to bed and I stayed outside until darkness fell, the glowing embers as mesmerising as ever. Homeward bound on the Monday morning, we still had plans to fulfil. The Grace Darling Museum is located in Bamburgh and we stopped for a look around. Staffed by volunteers, the museum contains the boat used by 22-year-old Grace to rescue nine people who had become stranded after their paddle steamer was wrecked off the Northumberland coast while sailing from Hull to Dundee. Born in 1815, Grace lived in Longstone Lighthouse where her father was head keeper. On the fateful night, SS Forfarshire developed boiler failure and a heavy storm forced the vessel towards the treacherous Farne Islands, where it was broken in two after striking Harcar Rock. Grace spotted the situation from her bedroom window and saw people clinging to the reef. Gambling on retrieving survivors fit enough to assist with the return journey, she and her father set out in a small coble rowing boat. Four men and a woman were brought back to the lighthouse on the first run. William Darling and one of the rescued men returned to pick up the remaining survivors. News of the escapade quickly spread and Grace became a national hero. She was in great demand for newspaper interviews and portrait sittings at a time when photography was very much in its infancy. Sadly Grace died from tuberculosis aged just 26. Her tomb is located in the churchyard across the road from the museum. One can't help but marvel at those who put their own lives on the line to help seafarers in distress, a commitment that continues to this day. We paid another visit to the Holy Island causeway, pausing in one of the temporary parking bays, before driving back to Scotland.