Callendar House, Falkirk

Just a short walk from Falkirk town centre lies the 170-acre green oasis of Callendar Park. The centrepiece is Callendar House - a mansion fashioned in the style of a French Renaissance chateau, fused with elements of Scottish Baronial architecture, while a far older tower structure sits at the core. The opulent building has a varied 600-year history and is now in the care of Falkirk Council - functioning as a museum and art gallery. Entry is free and the splendid tea room offers views of the surrounding parkland.

I arrived on a misty Sunday morning, which leant the park a rather eerie air. I had limited time on my hands and proceeded straight into the museum. The ground floor exhibition deals with the history of Scotland over the lifetime of the A-listed house, while the upper levels host displays on the Antonine Wall (part of which runs through the grounds) and the local area's contribution to the industrial revolution. A collection of paintings can be viewed and the oak-panelled Victorian library holds the Falkirk archives, which can be searched by appointment. The oldest part of the house dates from the 14th century, built by the Livingston family. Many prominent historical figures have passed through over the years - including Mary, Queen of Scots, Oliver Cromwell, Bonnie Prince Charlie and Queen Victoria. The Livingstons were an influential political family and never far from the centre of public affairs. In the late Middle Ages, a string of Scottish monarchs were crowned before they were old enough to formally take up their duties. This prompted several noble dynasties to vie for power, the Livingstons among them. Indeed, they "looked after" the young King James II in the 1440s. A century later, the Livingstons walked a political tightrope, remaining loyal to the catholic Queen Mary, while emerging as a leading protestant family during the Reformation. Their luck ran out during the Jacobite era and in1783, the forfeited Callendar lands were sold by the government at public auction. Businessman William Forbes tabled the winning bid. When asked how he was going to pay, the copper magnate simply pulled a banker’s draft for £100,000 out of his pocket - the equivalent of around £50 million today. Forbes made significant changes to the house and wider estate, developing magnificent gardens and pleasure grounds with many ornamental structures, including the family mausoleum. Wings and turrets were added to the mansion. The new laird had come from rather humble origins, the second son of an Aberdeen merchant. The self-made man represented a major shift in society - the rise of the entrepreneurial business class, which challenged the landed gentry. At this point in time, Scotland moved away from agriculture dominance towards an industrial future, with growing urban centres of population springing up across what is now termed the Central Belt. The Falkirk area can be considered the cradle of this societal shift. The enormous Carron Ironworks was established in 1759 and the Forth & Clyde Canal opened in 1790, running right through East Stirlingshire. Large shipments of goods could now be easily transported to and from either coast. The world's first successful towing steamboat - Charlotte Dundas - was trialled on the canal in 1803. The intercity railway from Edinburgh to Glasgow passed right through Falkirk and commenced running in 1842. The local population mushroomed and facilities couldn't always keep pace with the influx of people. Social change eventually came and living conditions gradually improved for the working classes. Callendar House also features a fully functional Georgian kitchen - used as a filming location for the popular Outlander historical fantasy TV series. Installed around 1790, many features are more or less original. Fans of Outlander (a global success) visit in droves and - bang on cue - a busload of Spaniards trooped in with a tour guide. It all helps replenish the country's coffers.

I headed upstairs to view the permanent exhibition on the Antonine Wall. The turf barrier (with a ditch in front) marked the northern limit of the Roman Empire. A window provided a nice view of the remaining evidence within Callendar Park.

Edinburgh National Trust

Most people probably associate the National Trust with grand country mansions, surrounded by extensive grounds. Or perhaps a historic castle with sweeping views across the landscape. There's plenty of that in the portfolio, but the organisation also maintain properties in the heart of our biggest cities.

The Georgian House is the Trust's prize asset in Edinburgh's New Town. The wide boulevards and terraced stone villas were constructed for the professional classes between 1770 and 1820. Until then, people from all walks of life lived in the medieval and increasingly overcrowded Old Town. 18th-century Edinburgh was one of the few major cities where poor and wealthy citizens inhabited largely the same space. Conditions were unsanitary and the agreed solution was expansion beyond the Nor Loch - which functioned as a cesspit. It was drained as part of the development programme and Princes Street Gardens now occupy most of the site. Those who could afford to, moved into the spacious new apartments arranged in geometric street patterns. The National Trust attraction is located on the elegant Charlotte Square. Next door is Bute House, official residence of Scotland's First Minister. This side of the quad was completed in 1796 and the first family to occupy the Georgian House (No. 7) was the Lamonts. They spent nearly two decades living here and the interior has been restored to reflect the fashions of this particular point in history i.e. the turn of the 19th century. The rooms were tastefully decorated but not extravagant. The Lamont finances were reportedly stretched at times. Gas lighting and the first toilet were installed by the second owner, Catherine Farquharson. She also had a wash house built out the back. Fine views of the distant Forth Estuary can be enjoyed today from the upper north-facing floors. When the property was built, there would have been only farmland between Charlotte Square and the shoreline. I was working my way through the self-guided tour in a top-down manner. Charles Neaves - an advocate and judge - occupied the property with his wife and 11 children for over 40 years during the reign of Queen Victoria. Considerable modifications were made in order to accommodate the larger household, such as an attic extension and extra servant quarters. A pivotal figure in the history Charlotte Square was John Crichton Stuart, the 4th Marquess of Bute. He purchased No. 5 in 1903 as a family townhouse and by the mid-20s had snapped up two adjacent properties (the present-day Georgian House and Bute House). Committed to preserving the architectural significance of the area, Stuart removed many of the Victorian additions. He let out No.7 to an antique dealer and cabinet maker. On the death of the 5th Marquess in 1956, the family passed the three Charlotte Square Properties to the National Trust. The 7th Marquess (also John Crichton-Stuart) raced on the Formula 1 circuit as Johnny Dumfries in the 1980s.

The commercial lease on No.7 expired in 1973 and the building was transformed into the Georgian House visited by 40,000 people annually today. The uppermost floor contained an apartment used by the Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland until 1999. The quarters now form the beginning of the house tour. A film depicting the history of the New Town is shown to guests upon arrival. The cooking range in the kitchen dates from the 1790s and was salvaged from a nearby property. It fits into a fireplace added in the late Victorian era. Next door, Bute House is still owned by the Trust and leased to the Scottish Government. Before the reconstituting of the Edinburgh Parliament, the living space was made available to the Secretary of State for Scotland. A pro-Palestine demonstration was taking place outside the political residence as I walked back towards Princes Street. I was bound for the Old Town, where the National Trust have another city-centre venue. I headed up The Mound - an artificial slope built to connect historic Edinburgh with the modern quarter. Earth extracted from the New Town foundations was dumped into the Nor Loch to form the access road. Once on the Royal Mile, I sought out Gladstone's Land, a tall tenement linked to the history of commerce in the Capital. The property has hosted a wide range of business activity, from spirit dealers to shoemakers, bakers to boarding-house keepers, and drapers to dairymen. Thomas Gladstone purchased the property in 1617. To attract wealthy tenants, he extended the building to the front, adding intricate and fashionable painted wooden ceilings in the new rooms he created. These overhead gems were later concealed beneath plaster and remained hidden until the 1930s, when the National Trust acquired the house and uncovered the stunning artwork during renovations. The local authority had declared parts of Gladstone's Land as unfit for human habitation. The modern complex incorporates a café and ice-cream parlour at ground-floor level and tickets for the upper floors are purchased here. I gained free entry with my membership card. Once again, the tour began at the top and I climbed the spiral staircase to the first of three displays - a boarding house for working-class men in the early 20th century. I perused the list of rules and conditions on the wall. The daily fee included one meal. Strictly prohibited were gambling, swearing, drunkenness and fighting. Doors were locked at 10pm and pets were not welcome. I descended to the mid-18th-century drapery, which offered a wide selection of quality cloth. Visitors are encouraged to touch the exhibits and explore the nooks and crannies. The final stop was very impressive. An ornate four-poster bed dominated the room in which the Riddoch family lived. The five children slept on mattresses pulled out from underneath. The Riddochs traded expensive foodstuffs and other imported items out of two ground floor shops. They ran a tavern in the cellar and lived on the fourth floor of the six storey building.

The Old Town was hemmed in between Castle Rock and the Nor Loch. The city walls acted as a further barrier towards expansion and - as a result - many tall precarious buildings were constructed. An economic downturn set in as the wealthy residents decamped to the New Town from the tail-end of the 18th century onwards. While Gladstone's Land retained an air of respectability, it housed workers of lesser skilled trades such as porters, labourers, and rubber workers alongside the skilled craftsmen who did remain. The property also became increasingly subdivided, with smaller apartments rented out at cheaper rates. In 1934, the entire building was scheduled for demolition until it was rescued by the Trust, who paid £760. Restoration work was carried out between 1935 and 1938, creating apartments, a shop, and a suite of showrooms. By 1980, additional conservation projects enabled the building to open as a public museum. Four holiday apartments are available to rent and are tastefully furnished, although access is via the narrow staircase, which may not suit everyone. The listed status of the building restricts the amount of structural changes that can be made. The selected the next available dates on the website and was quoted £348 for a two-night stay, plus a refundable deposit of £200. I guess I'll stick with the Travel Lodge or Premier Inn.

Stirling Museum

I read about a British Museum Spotlight Loan coming to the Smith Museum and Art Gallery in the City of Stirling. The travelling exhibition explores the Kushi Kingdom - a civilisation that flourished in Sudan nearly 3000 years ago. It had been a few years since I had visited the Stirling cultural institution and I took the bus from Dunfermline on a Sunday morning.

Just a short walk from the main shopping precinct, the museum was founded in 1874 and funded by the estate of local artist Thomas Stuart Smith (1814-1869). Stirling Castle looms overhead and I arrived shortly after the opening time of 10am. The Kushi displays were arranged in the entrance hall and contained several pieces of artwork, along with information panels that explained the history of the ancient kingdom - which existed around 1200 years until the 4th century and was one of the largest empires in the old world, ruling from the Blue Nile to the Levant. The exhibition examines the skilled craftsmanship, distinct religious beliefs, and the important role of women within this society, as well as exploring the rich culture of modern-day Sudan - which is not defined by the ongoing fierce conflict in the region. Kush was rich in natural resources, including gold, ivory and animal skins. The kingdom resisted Roman expansion and exported goods to distant lands. Kings and queens commissioned elaborate temples and were buried beneath pyramid structures in the desert. The River Nile is the lifeblood of Sudan but the heritage is under threat, with many historical sites and museums located in combat zones. The current conflict erupted in 2023 and has devastated the African nation. Reports of looting and vandalism have surfaced and an international committee has been tasked with protecting the treasures. More benign forces such as urban sprawl and dam construction are impinging upon the cultural site. Impending climate change also has an impact. Kushites worshipped multiple gods, including local deities and Egyptian figures. Most of the surviving artefacts were found at wealthy burial sites. The small collection on display today included examples of decorated pottery and a bronze figurehead from a ceremonial boat. Some objects were positioned on a sandstone offering table - an important part of funeral rituals. A modern woven food bag was also showcased, emphasising the fact that Sudan is still a centre of creative excellence. Credit to the British Museum for releasing these items for public consumption in other parts of the UK. The Smith Museum and Gallery is surrounded by gardens and is an oasis of calm just beyond the city centre. Its benefactor didn't live to see the completion of the project, dying unexpectedly in 1869, having formalised a public trust that same year. Smith was a highly regarded colourist and he amassed a huge private collection of paintings, many of which adorn the gallery walls today. His gift to the people of this old royal capital continues to impress visitors 150 years down the line.

I browsed the art collection, my eye being caught by an 1878 oil painting of Highland cattle by Joseph Denovan Adam - a subject in which he specialised. I also admired a depiction of the Venice Grand Canal by Edward Pritchett. The Pipe of Freedom was a striking portrait by Smith himself, showing an emancipated slave as an independent man. Considered radical at the time, the artwork was rejected by the Royal Academy in 1869 on political grounds. The entire gallery was devoted to the Smith legacy, both as an artist and a collector. In the next room, The Stirling Story is a permanent display examining the history of the city and the surrounding area. One of the oldest Royal Burghs, Stirling lies at the crossroads of Scotland's geography and history - sometimes described as the brooch that clasps the Highlands and Lowlands together. An old theory stated that whoever held the keys to Stirling Castle practically controlled the country. A series of major battles - including Stirling Bridge (1297) and Bannockburn (1314) - which changed the course of Scottish history, were fought in and around the royal seat of power. The town was also a great cultural centre and its central location made the place readily accessible. Roman remains have been found near Stirling, including a fort at Doune, which is thought to have included a hospital. Cambuskenneth Abbey was a Augustinian foundation from which the monarchs drew their advisors. King James III was buried there in 1488. Across the wider county, the abundance of mineral reserves placed Stirlingshire at the heart of the industrial revolution. The large iron foundries at Falkirk fuelled the rapidly changing way of life across the nation. Mining continued right up until the bitter strike of the 1980s, with local collieries featuring prominently in the struggle. An interesting exhibit was the "world's oldest football" - found behind wooden panels in Stirling Castle during renovation work in the late 1970s. Reckoned to date from the 1540s, the leather ball may even have been a childhood toy of Mary, Queen of Scots.

Containing an inflatable pig's bladder, the football is around half the size of the modern version. The professional sport we know today was formalised in the late 19th century but people have been kicking spherical objects around for far longer. The museum had tales of the Jacobite Rebellion and how this tumultuous period affected the Stirling area. As usual, many landowners and nobles put their own interests first and were not averse to switching allegiance in order to safeguard their privileged position. A random nugget to take home was the fact that Stirling had the world's first commercial fish farm. Howietoun was established in 1873 and is still operational, now part of the Department of Aquaculture at the city's university. I popped into the gift shop after my tour of the galleries. A Gaelic conversation class was taking place in the adjacent café. Do make the effort to wander along to the Smith, next time you explore the central parts of the old royal stronghold.