Germany 2025

One year on from our last foray to the Fatherland, we were on a plane to Berlin, en route to the Uckermark region where my mother-in-law Bärbel lives. As our flight wasn't due to land until early evening, we arranged to stay the night at Nicole's cousin's place on the outskirts of the capital city. The flight ran to schedule and we left our car at a large parking facility just off the M8. A shuttle bus took us to the terminal building. Two hours later, Madeleine picked us up at Berlin Airport and we had a good night's sleep, although Tofi the cat did pay us a visit in the middle of the night. What a perfect start to our holiday!

The next day, we ate a vegan breakfast and took the suburban train (S-Bahn) from Adlershof into the city centre. The main station (Hauptbahnhof) has several retail floors and was opened in 2006. We encountered one of the Berlin Buddy Bears - colourful life sized fibreglass artworks that symbolise tolerance and understanding. Around 500 examples are dotted around the city. Trains of all shapes and sizes come and go 24/7 at the Hauptbahnhof. After leaving our cases in the secure lockers, we jumped on a tram outside the entrance and went a couple of stops along to the Natural History Museum, where we had booked a 10-11am time slot. The charge worked out at around £10 per head, which was fine. Museums in Germany (both large and small) are almost never free. We were travelling on a Berlin-Brandenburg ticket which offers travel on all modes of transport across the two states, for up to five people. The €35 price tag was probably slightly dearer than the total cost of the individual journey legs, but we had the flexibility to jump on and off the system without any hassle. The museum dates from 1889 and is currently undergoing a long-term renovation project. The upper galleries are currently off-limits and two thirds of the building remain basically unchanged since 1945. The vast collection encompasses a wide range of specimens and two famous exhibits confront you as you stroll into the impressive entrance hall. The Giraffatitan skeleton is the largest mounted dinosaur skeleton in the world and the assembled bones stretch up to the roof, reaching a height of 13 metres. The remains were unearthed in modern-day Tanzania. Fitting the entire display in a single camera frame is practically impossible. Also prominently featured is the Archaeopteryx - a fossil of a very early bird ancestor with reptile characteristics that lived around 150 million years ago. Discovered in 1875 near Eichstätt (Bavaria), this particular specimen is the most complete example of its type and arguably the best known fossil across the globe. We proceeded into the System Earth gallery. A large globe in the centre of the hall shows animations and film sequences on topics such as plate tectonics, volcanoes, the impact of asteroids and meteorites, mountain formation and the atmosphere. These themes are discussed more extensively in island displays around the room. More dinosaur action presented itself in the shape of Tristan Otto (pictured below) - one of the few Tyrannosaurus Rex skeletons outside North America. A mere 66 million years old! The original skull is displayed in a separate display case, allowing visitors to view the detail up close. Around the corner, the massive "Wet Collection" sits within a rectangular glass-walled room. Visitors can explore all four sides and the high shelves house endless specimens preserved inside jars. The water/alcohol mixture prevents decay. Moving on, I passed by giant creepy-crawly models, including a house fly, common flea and a fearsome spider. They were painstakingly built by Alfred Keller between 1930 and 1955.

The taxidermy section had a dodo on display. The large flightless bird became extinct in the 1660s and was endemic to the island of Mauritius in the Indian Ocean. Human settlers aren't thought to have been directly responsible for the ground nesting dodo's disappearance, although habitat destruction certainly played a part. Experts reckon the introduction of rats (and possibly also cats and dogs) was the main danger, as the alien newcomers attacked chicks and feasted upon the vulnerable eggs. A famous museum resident is Bobby the Gorilla, regarded as a masterpiece of taxidermy. He arrived at Berlin Zoo in 1928, aged two, but died from appendicitis in 1935. His continuing presence in the city has cemented legendary status for the great ape. The special exhibition space is currently hosting the museum's historical mounted bird collection. Most of the specimens are over a century old and are currently in the process of being relocated as part of the development plan. All 11500 examples were cleaned, photographed, digitised and packed into transport boxes. Instead of keeping the crates behind closed doors, the renovation programme offered a rare opportunity to make the unique collection accessible to the public for the first time, under the cunning title Zugvögel - migratory birds. The display wasn't a visually stunning experience, with many birds crammed together into small cabinets and tagged with only Latin names. Nevertheless, I learned useful new facts about our feathered friends and the challenges they face. Populations are declining globally at an unprecedented rate. In just 40 years, we have lost a total of 600 million birds in Europe. It's frightening to think that such massive changes are occurring within my own lifetime. I spotted a stuffed great auk, which has been extinct since around 1850. Clumsy on land, it was easy prey for sailors who ate the flesh and used the fat for lamp oil and the feathers for insulation. News of the seriously declining numbers reached the natural history institutions and this exacerbated the demand for specimens, thus adding to the problem. We left the museum after a couple of hours and those without time-slots were having to wait in long queues outside. I would certainly like to return one day in the future when the building has undergone more refurbishment.

Back at the Hauptbahnhof, we grabbed a sandwich and waited for our connection. Trains run hourly to the Uckermark, the largely rural region where Nicole is from. We boarded a service bound for Schwedt and the carriages were quiet. We alighted at Angermünde, a historic market town and the closest mainline station to Nicole's home village of Schönermark. Her Uncle Gerald ferried us seven miles to Bärbel's place, where we received a warm welcome. An ample supply of food and drink would be a key feature of the next week and a half! The next day we woke to the sad news that Gerald had been admitted to hospital with a suspected stroke. Fortunately he was released after a few days and appears to be well on the way to recovery. He generously loaned us the use of his car for the duration of our stay. Bus services do pass through the village but they are limited. On our first fully day, we drove out to Blumberger Mühle - a local nature reserve on the outskirts of Angermünde. A visitor centre, shop and café are on site. The complex belongs to NABU (Naturschutzbund) - one of the oldest conservation groups in Germany. Formed in 1899, the organisation now boasts almost a million members. Entry to Blumberger Mühle was just €4 and the reserve belongs to the wider protected area of Schorfheide-Chorin, whose territory stretches to 1300 square kilometres, including areas of marsh, meadow and woodland, dotted with innumerable lakes. We passed through the reception area and went for a wander around the familiar trails. Unfortunately the rare-breed pig (of Hungarian origin) had passed away since our last visit. The bird hide looks out across the extensive carp and tench ponds, created by monks in the 13th century and still farmed today. The mill (after which the reserve is named) was established in 1707 and ran for almost 200 years. Following WW2, fish production was intensified and the operation was off-limits to the general public, thereby allowing nature to exist alongside the commercial activities. The collapse of the Berlin Wall irrevocably changed the economic outlook of eastern Germany and NABU purchased the ponds and surrounding land in 1993 ensuring a long-term future as a wildlife haven. A kingfisher darted by and many cormorants were sitting out in the water. At the turtle pool, just one resident was visible, basking on a log. This native European species lives in still or slow-flowing water and is threatened by extinction. Destruction of habitat is the main reason. Modern farming developments have led to the draining of naturally wet areas and the straightening of rivers. There are also far fewer egg-laying spots. Thankfully, NABU is looking after the turtles wherever possible. Part of the conservation programme involves not releasing the young turtles into the wild until they are sufficiently large enough to avoid being easy pickings for predatory birds and fish.

We completed our wander around the reserve and browsed the shop before heading off. The next destination was Gut Kerkow - a farmstead that has organic meat and other quality produce for sale. Kerkow rear their own cattle and geese. The business extends to four retail outlets in Berlin. Partnerships with other organic suppliers provide a wide range of food options. As a little treat, I picked up a couple of regional beers and a few sachets of powdered chocolate and vanilla pudding. On the way home, we picked up Bärbel, who had been visiting a relative in the village of Greiffenberg. There is an Asian takeaway on the main road and we decided to have Döner for dinner. Kebabs are very popular in Germany and the bread is of a superior quality to the British version. I ordered the full covering of salad and asked for it to be topped with herb sauce. We drove back the short distance to Schönermark and unwrapped our foil packages at the kitchen table. The perfect way to round off our first day in the Uckermark. Well, almost. We tuned in to watch the German Bake-off final. Good fun, and remarkably similar to the British version. Thursday is when Bärbel does the weekly shop and we went to the Rewe supermarket in Angermünde. Prices have risen sharply over here, as in the UK. We fed two bags of empty bottles into the recycling machine to earn a voucher for a few Euros, redeemable in the store. When can we have this system back home? Normally there's no more mundane activity than a supermarket run, but it all comes to life overseas. I gaped at the German products and purchased a few of my favourites. This included Sülze, the closest thing to potted hough, and Rindfleischsalat, chunks of beef in a spicy salad mix. I located a few dark beers among the crates of pilsner. At little more than a Euro per bottle, it barely dents the wallet to indulge in the national drink. In the afternoon, we headed a few miles to Pinnow village. A lovely ice-cream parlour is situated here and we tucked into elaborately decorated sundaes. We sat in the garden marquee as the main building was very busy. Pinnow has a railway station and no doubt this helps bring in a few people. Nicole's nephew Elias arrived the following day. Aged 12, he loves visiting his gran and planned to stay for a long weekend. Also in Schönermark was Aunt Ruth - a lively character who lives near Berlin. Relaxing family time and a healthy dose of laughter. On Saturday, Nicole, Elias and I attended a special event at Blumberger Mühle. The carp ponds were being fished and NABU were also providing birdwatching walks. I was quite surprised at the number of people in attendance. A real local family occasion. The pools were around a mile and a half from the visitor centre and a tractor shuttled folk back and forth in a covered trailer. This was a free service. The traditional horse & cart option cost a few Euros per head. We joined a bird tour and wandered along the water's edge. Two guides explained the highlights of the local wildlife and supplied interesting facts about the regular species. We had seen another kingfisher on the way in and various waders were splashing about in the middle distance, while a heron flew overhead. Afterwards, we observed the fishing operation. The commercial catch was winched out by bucket into waiting boats and various stalls had been set up on the grassy bank. I munched my way through a herring baguette and wondered if the carp harvest would supply the Christmas demand. Fish is traditionally eaten on the 24th of December, known in Germany as Heiligabend.

Nicole's brother Maik arrived on Sunday, with his wife Jenny and their daughter Malia. She is a toddler and kept everyone entertained during the afternoon. It is customary to have Kaffee & Kuchen on these occasions. Any concessions to sensible eating fly out the window on holiday. I took the opportunity to burn a few calories on Sunday morning, while Nicole met up with Madeline, who was in Schönermark visiting her parents. I planned a walk along local farm tracks, four miles each way. Setting off early morning, it was fairly chilly and the autumn colours were spectacular. The Uckermark is criss-crossed with Feldwege that today just carry the odd agricultural and the rare type of human known as a walker. Or perhaps a cyclist if the surface is favourable. Several hiking routes run through the region but they are usually very quiet. This is intensive farming territory and two-legged leisure expeditions isn't a massively popular pastime around these parts. It does provide those who venture out with the opportunity to get away from it all. Over my eight miles, I saw two cyclists and two dog walkers, all at a distance on other paths. Maybe I should set up a pilgrimage route. Would that fly in a former communist state? On my travels I saw large flocks of cranes and geese in adjacent fields. The former is a rarity in the UK but a ubiquitous sight over here. Graceful in flight, the long-legged wader stands over a metre tall (the largest in Europe) and their call can be heard up to three miles away. Nesting deep in reedbeds, these large birds can slink into dense vegetation and easily disappear from the sight of predators. Their diet is omnivorous. The continental population has moved out of the danger zone since the 1990s and now occupies the slot termed least concern. Traditionally, eastern European cranes migrate to North Africa but milder winters in recent years have prompted some to remain at home all year round. Who knows what the long-term effects of climate change will be. The final third of my walk was on a minor concreted road and a handful of cars passed by. I turned around when I met the main Schwedt highway and retraced my steps back to Schönermark. A large sign informed me that EU funding had been allocated to improving parts of the Feldweg network to allow smoother access for bicycles, horses and tractors. I smiled wryly at the much-asked question, what has a united Europe ever done for us? Shanks's pony didn't rate a mention but I was having fun nonetheless. I was a little weary upon my return, as tramping a soft sandy surface for a few miles saps stamina. I rested for an hour and awaited Nicole's return. We had booked a tour of the Heimathaus - the village museum, available to view by appointment. A lady from across the road is one of the custodians and she showed us around the various rooms. A wide array of objects was on display. Farming implements featured heavily, as did the tools of traditional trades once performed in the village, many within easy living memory. Nowadays the nearest shops are several miles away. I remember the convenience store, but not the pub. The situation the past couldn't have been more different, with a selection of traders and craftspeople offering their wares.

It struck me that rural East Germany was probably a generation behind central Scotland in terms of local business outlets. I do remember an old-fashioned cobblers shop in Lochgelly, but the proprietor was an elderly man seeing out his final days. Many of the amenities referred to in the museum were still active here in the 1980s, but were beyond my personal experience. Apparently horses and carts could still be occasionally seen in villages prior to the collapse of the Berlin Wall, but these conveyances would reflect my dad's youth back home, not mine. One room was laid out as an old classroom and I studied the historical maps of Germany on the wall. The building in fact is the former school, established in 1827 and closed in 1951. Schönermark was recently incorporated into the Schwedt city region and the current village population is around 325. The railway station closed to passengers in 1996, but was inconveniently located a couple of miles distant. Written references to the settlement occur as far back as 1287 and photographs of the 700-year celebrations were on display. Nicole recognised a few faces. The museum was opened the same year. I assume this was tied-in with the anniversary. A most interesting tour. I took the opportunity to sign the guest book and place a donation in the box. Outside, the gardens are well maintained and the museum building (pictured below) is pleasing to the eye. The church stands next door and we had a stroll through the grounds. I've never been inside, despite the fact Nicole's family used to live next door. Religion was officially frowned upon, but tacitly tolerated out in the sticks during the DDR years. I should imagine traditional Christian congregations are dwindling here, as is the case back home. A scale model of the village circa 1800 is displayed in the museum with the settlement clearly grouped around the place of worship. Changed days indeed. As we walked back to the house, I noticed a large information panel that showed the main points of interest within Schönermark. Nice to see these efforts. We drove the three miles to Biesenbrow, a neighbouring village known for being Ehm Welk's place of birth. He was a highly regarded journalist and writer during the first six decades of the 20th century. We were in town for a spot of birdwatching and Nicole's nature guidebook directed us to a large pond on the outskirts. We parked on a minor road and walked just over a kilometre to the site of a dam with a handy viewing platform. A lovely peaceful location. Reed beds grew by the water's edge and we spotted little grebes and the ubiquitous cormorant. Suddenly a kingfisher appeared and we tracked its motion through binoculars. This flight was a mere appetiser and the next fly-by presented three of the colourful birds simultaneously. Never before had I seen more than one on a single occasion. A real highlight of the holiday so far. The kingfisher is called Eisvogel in German. Literally ice bird.

We walked back to the car in high spirits. A loud siren sounded across the landscape, summoning the volunteer fire brigade. Two emergency vehicles eventually drove right past us but we never did discover the nature of the incident. The next day, we travelled to Schwedt, the principal town in the Uckermark and close to the Polish border. Largely destroyed in the final days of the war (including the castle), new housing blocks were constructed in the 1960s and the main industry is the oil refinery, opened in 1958 and connected to the Druzhba Pipeline, a 2500-mile supply network that serves several eastern European nations. Schwedt has lost a quarter of its population since Germany was reunified in 1990. Many jobs were lost in the old DDR as industry was restructured. Capitalism and Communism didn't mesh harmoniously. Nevertheless, Schwedt is a clean and an interesting place to visit. We walked through the Oder Centre - an indoor shopping complex built in the mid-90s. Several eating places ply their trade within, alongside a mix of chain stores and smaller concerns. Unfortunately the national book chain Thalia withdrew recently. During the 20 years I have been visiting this part of Germany, I have witnessed a sharp fall in town-centre retail footfall. The reasons are obvious enough. Newsagents are still relatively common as Germany retains an attachment to printed magazines. I purchased a train publication and the Berliner Morgenpost. We also visited the smaller shopping centre on the main drag and Nicole stocked up on products from the chemist. After an ice cream in the corner café, we hit the independent bookshop in the remnants of the Altstadt (old town), some of which was restored post-1945. Wall plaques explain the history of the various historic buildings. The bookstore owners used to have another outlet in Angermünde but this closed a few years ago. Thankfully the Schwedt shop still exists and offers a good selection of reading material. I bought a Krimi (crime novel) set in the Uckermark. We found a thank-you gift for Gerald in the regional shop further along the street. Having access to a car allows you to cover far more ground. A mermaid statue stands on the banks of the shipping canal and a little boy seemed fascinated by her assets on the human half. Clearly a future boob man! Elias and I fetched Softeis from a café and we ate our second chilled treat by the water. Such indulgences are permitted on holiday. A freight barge chugged by, something rarely seen in the UK. Our canals are almost exclusively devoted to leisure pursuits nowadays. The natural River Oder lies further afield and has intact flood plains. This region forms the border with Poland. We walked past the main church (pictured below), the town's oldest surviving structure. Largely burnt out during the hostilities, the impressive stone building rose from the ashes during the 1950s.

Watercourses would feature prominently the next day as we took a train from Angermünde to Bernau (towards Berlin) to meet up with Nicole's father Jens. Once again, we purchased the regional ticket, which saved us a few Euros. Jens drove us out to his recently acquired country cottage which requires some renovation. We wandered down to the nearby lake and then drove through the forest to a little place called Eichhorst, situated on the Werbellinkanal. There are many walking and cycle routes in this area and the navigable waterway links the Werbellinsee (a large lake) to the Oder-Havel Canal, a major artery that connects Berlin to the River Oder and the (now Polish) city of Stettin. We enjoyed an amazing fish burger in a little restaurant, eating al fresco as boats passed through the village lock. Jens drove us along to the Werbellinsee. A professional musician, he pointed out many of his old haunts over the day. One such place was a Czech themed pub on the shores of the lake. We sat by the water for a while, enjoying the autumn sunshine. Back on the road, we passed through Eberswalde - a major town in Brandenburg, with over 40,000 inhabitants and surrounded by forests. Despite the attractive location, Eberswalde was a centre of industry during the Soviet-controlled years. After the 1990 Wende (the change), the concept of a planned economy became redundant and many factories closed across the far east of the country, causing widespread unemployment and flight to more prosperous areas. Some manufacturing remains in Eberswalde however. Industrial cranes are pieced together here. The town tram system was torn up in 1940 and replaced by trolleybuses. Incredibly, they still run. We saw a couple in operation as we made our way through the town. Solingen and Esslingen are the only other places in Germany to have this type of transport system, which has been entirely absent from the UK since 1972, Bradford being the last city to have buses running under the wires. I had earned my geek stripes, but more was to come on that score.

Lothian National Trust

Today we ticked off two historic properties on the other side of the Forth. After battling our way through the Edinburgh bypass traffic, we arrived at Musselburgh, a coastal town of 20,000 inhabitants. Our destination was Newhailes House, a Palladian mansion set within 80 acres of parkland. It was the home of the Dalrymple family for over three centuries and has been in the care of the National Trust for Scotland since 1997. Unfortunately the tours were already fully booked and we had to content ourselves with a walk around the grounds. General entry to the estate is free and many families were out in force. We examined the dovecot just beyond the main entrance.

Pigeons were kept as a source of meat and eggs. The squat white building contains over 600 nesting boxes and was restored in 2018. The house is A-listed and comprises the original core, flanked by later extensions. Sir David Dalrymple purchased the property in 1709 and oversaw the construction of the library wing, anticipating the beginnings of enlightenment culture. The new laird sat in the Parliament of Scotland from 1698 to 1707 and graduated to the post-union House of Commons. He served as Lord Advocate and Auditor of the Exchequer in Scotland. The family became a wealthy Edinburgh legal and political dynasty, although John Dalrymple (brother of Sir David, and Secretary of State) was painted as one of the darkest figures in Scottish history when he organised and authorised the 1692 Massacre of Glencoe. Newhailes passed through multiple generations until the barony became extinct in 1971, following the death of Mark Dalrymple. He had no children and his widow Lady Antonia passed away in 2017 at the age of 91, thus ending the family line. She had occupied an apartment within the mansion and - finally - an estate cottage. The Government had accepted around seven thousand volumes from the massive Newhailes Library collection upon the passing of Sir Mark, in lieu of death duties. The National Trust adopted a policy of minimal conservation, aiming to freeze the property in time. The grounds once contained a series of impressive garden features, including an atmospheric shell grotto, an elegant summerhouse, water gardens with cascades combined with quieter, reflective pools, and a beautiful walled flower garden. The latter area fell into disrepair and functioned as a mink farm for several decades in the 20th century. Now partly restored, we wandered the paths and came across pumpkins, apples and sunflowers. The stable block (also A-listed) has been converted to a café but we opted for the ice-cream parlour in the former dairy, before heading further along the coast to the Scottish Ornithologists Club headquarters at Aberlady. The shop and art gallery are open to the general public. We perused the Coastlines exhibition, featuring paintings by Liz Myhill and Louise Pallister. Craggy rocks hosted resting razorbills and curlews waded through the ebbing tide. We meticulously chart the contours of the coast but the birds regard it simply as their playground. We drove inland to Preston Mill - the last working water-driven example in East Lothian and a rare survivor from the days when almost every village had a milling operation. Grain from local farms was turned into oatmeal and animal feed. The exact date of opening is undocumented but it is believed that parts of the stone building date from the 17th century and the structure is known to have been remodelled at least four times. The resemblance to a witch's hat makes the mill instantly recognisable. It also featured in the hugely popular Outlander TV series, which ensures a steady flow of visitors from across the globe. The machinery is around 150 years old different grades of oatmeal were produced. A small country mill was largely a self-sufficient project. Vegetables would have been grown onsite, and poultry kept. A tour was just about to begin as we arrived and we joined the group. The mill was formerly a focal point of village life. People stopped to buy grain and eggs, while indulging in the inevitable gossip.

Preston Mill was given to the National Trust in 1950 (following a major flood) and ran commercially until the end of that decade. It was the first industrial property to be run by the esteemed heritage organisation. The mill buildings are A-listed and the adjacent visitor centre hosts a small exhibition. The River Tyne flows close by the site and a lade brings water to power the internal workings. The wheel was last replaced in 1909. A system of conveyor belts, gears, hoists and pulleys processes the raw grains and the tour was informative. The working conditions must have been cramped and the dusty atmosphere would not have been kind to the lungs. It was also a noisy place to work, as we found out when the guide opened the sluice gates, which cranked the machinery into action. No ear plugs back in the day. The distinctive red pantiles on the roof were brought over by boat from the continent. They also served as ballast on the return journey, after the initial cargo had been offloaded. We inspected the kiln and noted the bricks on the outer wall that marked the levels of previous episodes of high water, a problem that still occurs today. The Outlander scenes had the principal character Jamie Fraser hiding underwater from the pursuing redcoats. The John Muir Way passes right through the complex and a handful of walkers ambled by. The popular lowland trail cuts right through Central Scotland, from Dunbar to Helensburgh. Although the mill remains in full working order, this is purely for demonstrative purposes. No flour is actually produced these days. A little gem of a place.

Stirling Castle

Unsurprisingly, Scotland's most popular paid visitor attraction is Edinburgh Castle. In second place is the Stirling counterpart - a hilltop stronghold steeped in royal and military history. Considered the de facto capital of Scotland during the Middle Ages, Stirling had long been a strategic crossing point between the Lowlands and Highlands. It was for centuries the furthest point downstream where the mighty River Forth was bridged. Indeed, the famous battle here in 1297 saw William Wallace's troops emerge victorious. A key point in the nation's history. Stirling Castle is visible from miles around but it was many years since I'd been inside the walls. My hand was somewhat forced, due to the hosting of a railway exhibition within the compound. The only way in was to purchase a regular castle ticket.

The advance price online was £18.50 but that turned out to be good value, as there is a lot to see inside the various buildings. The panoramic views across the surrounding landscape are immense. I travelled there by bus on a new route. Despite having city status and lying just 22 miles apart, Dunfermline and Stirling didn't have the benefit of a direct public transport link in recent years. Stagecoach have rectified this and a service departs hourly, via Alloa and the Springkerse Retail Park. I made my way uphill from the town centre to the castle - a lovely heritage walk in itself. Walking across the esplanade, I was greeted by a statue of King Robert the Bruce, sword in hand. Erected in 1876, the figure faces south towards the location of the Battle of Bannockburn, a 1314 conflict that saw the Scots gain a decisive victory over English forces. Another pivotal point in the country's fortunes. The last reigning monarch to stay in Stirling Castle was Charles II, who was crowned King of Scots in 1651. He was forced into exile following defeat at the Battle of Worcester - the last major conflict in the Wars of the Three Kingdoms. Republican soldiers occupied Stirling but the monarchy was eventually restored in 1660. I passed through the impressive castle gates and took in the view from the battlements, looking west. The vast flat plain of the Carse of Stirling spread out for miles. Once a virtually impassable peat bog, it has been transformed by drainage into prime agricultural territory. The old royal pleasure and hunting grounds are situated directly below the castle. The distinctive earthwork known as the King’s Knot (pictured below) was part of the formal garden area and is easily identifiable from above. The octagonal and rectangular design was created for the Scottish coronation of Charles I in 1633. After a period of abandonment, Queen Victoria ordered a full restoration. I proceeded into the cobbled courtyard and began to explore the castle history. Stirling has been a seat of Scottish royalty for almost 1000 years. The castle changed hands many times during the long-running Wars of Independence. Whoever controlled Stirling was said to hold the keys to the kingdom. Almost all of the present structure dates from 1490 to 1600, when successive generations of the House of Stewart developed the site. I passed through an undercroft, which contained several small exhibition rooms. The crossover between the Stewart and Tudor royal lineage was explained. The sister of Henry VIII married James IV of Scotland in 1503 This union led to the vacant English throne passing to the Scottish monarch James VI, precisely 100 years later. Before James IV became the last reigning sovereign to die in battle (at Flodden, 1513), he launched a programme of building works at Stirling Castle, the place of his birth. He was also the final Scottish king known to have been conversant in Gaelic, just one of many languages he spoke. After the travesty at Flodden, James V inherited the throne aged just a year and a half. Born at Linlithgow Palace, he spent much of his childhood at Stirling (where he was crowned) while a series of regents ruled on his behalf. At one stage, the Earl of Angus overstepped his authority and effectively held the young king prisoner, until the teenage James fled from Edinburgh to Stirling in disguise.

There didn't appear to be any effects of trauma below the waist, as James sired several illegitimate issue before being urged to marry and produce a legal heir. Visits to the French court were arranged and he became hitched to Princess Madeleine, who sadly died six months after the wedding at the age of 16. The second bride was noblewoman Mary of Guise, also of French extraction. The marriage helped maintain good relations between the two nations. It often seems that royal nuptials were more about business and diplomacy than actual matters of the heart. You could probably make a good case for this being true until very recently. James V continued and expanded his father's construction phase, creating the Royal Palace, now the centrepiece of the complex. He also specified the open courtyard design. The substantial dowries received from the two marriages helped meet the building costs. In fact, the King was legally contracted to provide a lavish home for his second wife, who would also retain the right of residency should James pre-decease her. Following the death of two infant sons, a daughter (Mary) was born. Six days later, she became Queen of Scots when her father passed, having recently turned 30. The exterior of the palace was adorned with fabulous carvings, including monkeys, parrots, gods and griffins. Talented woodcarvers were employed to create the intricate ceiling patterns. It was also not unknown for real live lions to be kept within royal compounds. I walked through the royal apartments and was surrounded by opulence. Access to the King was tightly controlled and it was considered a great honour to be granted an appointment. Most visitors - typically ambassadors, courtiers and nobles - would have met the monarch in the inner hall, after first being made to wait in the outer room. Only the most important guests were ushered all the way into the bedchamber. Queen Mary (of Guise) had a similar set-up in her royal quarters. Her state bed (pictured below) is on display today. The luxurious four-poster was purely symbolic. Both King and Queen actually slept in smaller apartments off to the side. James V commissioned a series of carved timber portraits (known as the Stirling Heads) to decorate the palace ceilings. The spectacular pieces were eventually taken down in 1777 when the surrounding plasterwork began to collapse. Most of the 38 surviving artworks (from an estimated original 56) are currently on display in a purpose-built gallery.

Careful research by Historic Scotland - the current guardians of the castle - has revealed some of the inspiration behind the elaborate designs. The Heads were fashioned from oak trees felled in 1539, in modern-day Poland. Paint was originally applied, but only tiny fragments remain. Nevertheless, this discovery gives an insight to the original colour scheme of the palace interior. The imagery of the Heads reinforced James's position by aligning him with influential ancestors, key biblical players, historical giants and European contemporaries. Having noted allies in high places helped convey a sense of uncontested power, as did the emphasis on the lengthy and unbroken Stewart family line. By including figures such as Charles V - the Holy Roman Emperor and possessor of the fearsome Habsburg chin - James was making it clear that he stood firmly among the mightiest men on the continent. Mary, Queen of Scots, was crowned at Stirling as an infant. She grew up in France and married the heir apparent Francis II, who became King shortly afterwards at the age of 15, following the accidental death of his father. The teenage ruler reigned for little more than a year before becoming gravely ill and passing away. Mary returned to Scotland in 1561 and often visited Stirling Castle. Having remarried, her son James was baptised here and became King at a year old, following a chain of events that prompted his mother's forced abdication and eventual execution. Growing up within the caste walls, young James was frequently used as a pawn between his regents and the nobles who wished to see Mary restored as Queen of Scots. James acceded to the English throne in 1603 and became ruler of two nations, moving his court to London. Stirling's role as a royal residence declined and the castle became primarily a military stronghold. It was used as a prison for persons of rank during the 17th century, and saw few visits by the sitting monarch. A powder magazine was created within the castle gardens and a formal garrison installed in 1685. Government forces moved quickly to secure the fortress during the Jacobite rebellion. From 1800, the castle was owned by the War Office and functioned as an army barracks. Many alterations were made over the years. The Great Hall became an accommodation block and the Chapel Royal was transformed into a lecture theatre and dining hall. The King's Old Building was repurposed as a military hospital and the Royal Palace found a new role as the Officer's Mess. Royal visits still occurred from time to time. Queen Victoria visited in 1842 and the Prince of Wales in 1859. The army departed in 1964 and the King's Old Building now houses the regimental museum of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders. The fighting force was formed in 1881, following an amalgamation of two individual county units. The soldiers used Stirling Castle as their training headquarters. I wandered in for a look around the various galleries. Entry to the museum is included in the general admission ticket.

The new combined regiment expanded rapidly upon the outbreak of the First World War. Battalions served in several locations and around 7000 men were lost over the four years of the conflict. Many Highland communities were stripped bare of manpower, with devastating consequences to the local economy, not to mention the social impact. Two decades later, global war erupted again and the Argylls were involved on all fronts. Troops fought in the Korean War in the early 1950s, a somewhat forgotten struggle, yet a brutal one. In more modern times, the regiment was engaged in Northern Ireland for 30 years. The Argylls staved off the threat of disbandment in 1967 but eventually the Highland force was absorbed into the Royal Regiment of Scotland in 2006, when the entire army structure was reduced in size and reorganised. I enjoyed my wander through the museum. The themes examined stretched beyond the battlefield campaigns, looking at issues such as military medical progress, sporting opportunities, life at home during the world wars and the changing face of Highland culture during the industrial revolution. Well worth investigating. I walked across the courtyard into the Chapel Royal, built in 1594 as the setting for the baptism of Prince Henry, the oldest son of James VI. He died aged 18 and his brother Charles endured an ill-fated reign. Yet another historical twist with far-reaching consequences. An undoubted highlight for visitors is the fully restored Great Hall. Renovation commenced after the army moved out and the spectacular hammer-beam roof contains the timber of 350 oak trees and is held together by 4000 handmade pegs. Queen Elizabeth II performed the opening ceremony in 1999. A historical talk was in progress and I caught some of that before seeking out the railway photography exhibition. I traversed the defensive wall and enjoyed the views of the Wallace monument atop nearby Abbey Craig. The choo-choo experience is covered in a separate post. I poked my head into the gunpowder store and checked out a tapestry display in the far corner of the castle footprint. Thought to be the biggest project of kind undertaken anywhere in Britain for over a century, seven new tapestries were woven, based on the original designs commissioned by James. The final design was completed in 2014. The castle visit had been extremely satisfying and it's not hard to see why it attracts tourists from all over the world.