Killin Circuit

The Highland Perthshire conservation village of Killin is situated at the western end of Loch Tay and the magnificent Falls of Dochart cascade through the settlement, the A827 crossing them on a slender stone bridge with four arches. Originally built in 1760, it was partially reworked in 1831. Killin was a stronghold of Perthshire Gaelic and the language was spoken natively by some residents as recently as the 1970s. We were in town today to complete a circular walk that would take us to the shore of the loch and return via an old railway.

We pulled into a car-park that was built on the site of the former railway station. A council depot occupies the land where the goods yard was situated. We picked up the path of the old line and soon crossed the River Lochay on a fine low-level steel bridge. The Lochay and Dochart converge just before entering Loch Tay. The railway crossed the Dochart on a five-arch concrete viaduct, but this was not part of our walk today. The Killin branch opened in 1886 and split from the main Callander to Oban route, running five miles to the terminus at Loch Tay Station - an interchange facility for the steamboats that plied their trade along the elongated stretch of water. Sailings ceased in 1939 and the station was closed to passenger traffic, although the tracks remained in use as the engine shed for the branch line was located here. We left the trackbed and took a path through the Loch Tay Marshes - an area popular with birdwatchers and anglers. Redshank and Oystercatcher were displaying today. The towering Ben Lawers dominates the surrounding landscape. It is the 10th highest mountain in Scotland and falls just short of 4000 feet. We skirted the western extremity of the loch and hooked back up with the railway, following the trackbed back towards the village. Despite the fact no trains have passed here in 60 years, there were sleepers embedded in the path at various points. I also spotted a railway telegraph pole still standing, but gradually rotting away. They aren't easy to find nowadays and hark back to a time when signal boxes were linked by overhead wires. The Killin branch closed in 1965 when the main route to Oban bit the dust. Parts of both railways have since been converted to cycleways. Traffic had seriously declined in the 1950s and the axe fell. Rural lines were shutting down across the whole of the UK at this point. We once again crossed the Lochay Bridge and I hopped over the fence into the adjacent field to take a nicely-lit photo. On the drive back towards Callander we stopped to view the picturesque Glen Ogle Viaduct, now carrying only bikes and foot soldiers. Further down the A84, the steering wheel seemed to move of its own accord and we found ourselves turning right and pulling up beside an outbuilding next to the Lade Inn. What did the sign say above the doorway? Ah yes, the Scottish Real Ale Shop.

This small business is a Mecca for beer lovers. We rang the bell and someone came out of the pub to open up for us. The shop has been trading since 2005 and stocks ales from the length and breadth of Scotland, including remote locations such as the Island of Colonsay. The Lade Inn house ales are also available. Over 40 breweries are represented and you are sure to find something to suit your taste.