House of the Binns

Having a National Trust membership allows us to jump in the car and sample some heritage, knowing the admission costs are taken care of. It does pay to check the smaller print though. We failed to spot that pre-booking is highly recommended for the mansion we were visiting today. As a result, we arrived to find sold-out signs at the front entrance. We would have to settle for exploring the grounds instead. A vintage coffee van (The Humble Bean) was parked on the lawn and we sipped our refreshments on a bench overlooking the Firth of Forth. The resident peacocks however were nowhere to be seen.

The greensward sloped down towards the tidal river and we could clearly identify Limekilns village on the far shore. Nicole did an impromptu sketch while I phoned my mum. We then followed a trail through a patch of woodland and hiked up to the tower on the small hill. I had been here once before, just prior to Christmas. The weather today was far more conducive to appreciating the panoramic views opening up across the estuary. There is an amusing tale behind the construction of Binns Tower in 1826. The fifth baronet took part in a gambling game involving his friends, each staking £100 to see who could dream up with the most frivolous way of spending the money. Sir James built a structure on the high point of his land, deliberately impeding the views of his neighbours on the Hopetoun Estate. Causing much hilarity, this was the winning idea and the cylindrical tower was promptly erected - apparently at a cost of just £29. It boasted a wind turbine in the 1930s but is topped by a flagpole today. The rich man's folly is now a prominent B-listed local landmark. Archive photos of the interior can be found online. Basically a bare stone chamber with a ladder attached to the wall. The main house is still occupied by descendants of the original owners, the only National Trust property with this distinction. The Dalyell family have lived here since 1612 and legend insists the dynasty will continue as long as the peafowl roam the grounds (and vice versa). They roost in a huge sycamore tree close to the big house. Thomas Dalyell bought the land to create his family dwelling. He was an Edinburgh merchant who initially specialised in the buying and selling of butter from Orkney. He significantly raised his social standing by marrying Janet Bruce, daughter of Edward Bruce, a trusted adviser to King James VI. Their eldest son (also Thomas) enjoyed an international military career, even serving for the Russian Tsar. Back on home soil, he founded the Royal Scots Greys, our only cavalry regiment. There are also colourful tales of him playing cards with the devil. In more recent times, Labour politician Tam Dalyell (1932-2017) held the baronetcy, although he never actively used the title. Opposed to devolution, he famously formulated the West Lothian Question - asking why Scottish, Welsh and Northern Irish MPs have the right to vote in Westminster on laws that will only impact England, while the reverse does not apply. Dalyell retired in 2005 after 43 years of service. By this time he had become the Father of the House - a reference to the longest serving MP. The mansion was handed over to the National Trust in 1944 for upkeep, with the Dalyell family retaining residential rights. Tam Dalyell lived in the western wing and his widow Kathleen cooperated closely with the Trust until her recent death.

Next time, we will secure slots on the tour and explore the interior of the house. The highlights include the magnificent plaster ceilings from 1630, commissioned for the visit of King Charles I to Scotland. Also the Scottish Renaissance painted wood decoration, a rare survival from the earliest period of the house. The mansion is Category-B listed and its exterior architecture is certainly impressive. Remodelled several times over the years, the present castellated appearance dates from 1810. The walled garden actively supplied produce until the 1940s. The surrounding parkland is beautifully landscaped. A satisfying day out in Central Scotland. Go see for yourself.