Stirling Museum

I read about a British Museum Spotlight Loan coming to the Smith Museum and Art Gallery in the City of Stirling. The travelling exhibition explores the Kushi Kingdom - a civilisation that flourished in Sudan nearly 3000 years ago. It had been a few years since I had visited the Stirling cultural institution and I took the bus from Dunfermline on a Sunday morning.

Just a short walk from the main shopping precinct, the museum was founded in 1874 and funded by the estate of local artist Thomas Stuart Smith (1814-1869). Stirling Castle looms overhead and I arrived shortly after the opening time of 10am. The Kushi displays were arranged in the entrance hall and contained several pieces of artwork, along with information panels that explained the history of the ancient kingdom - which existed around 1200 years until the 4th century and was one of the largest empires in the old world, ruling from the Blue Nile to the Levant. The exhibition examines the skilled craftsmanship, distinct religious beliefs, and the important role of women within this society, as well as exploring the rich culture of modern-day Sudan - which is not defined by the ongoing fierce conflict in the region. Kush was rich in natural resources, including gold, ivory and animal skins. The kingdom resisted Roman expansion and exported goods to distant lands. Kings and queens commissioned elaborate temples and were buried beneath pyramid structures in the desert. The River Nile is the lifeblood of Sudan but the heritage is under threat, with many historical sites and museums located in combat zones. The current conflict erupted in 2023 and has devastated the African nation. Reports of looting and vandalism have surfaced and an international committee has been tasked with protecting the treasures. More benign forces such as urban sprawl and dam construction are impinging upon the cultural site. Impending climate change also has an impact. Kushites worshipped multiple gods, including local deities and Egyptian figures. Most of the surviving artefacts were found at wealthy burial sites. The small collection on display today included examples of decorated pottery and a bronze figurehead from a ceremonial boat. Some objects were positioned on a sandstone offering table - an important part of funeral rituals. A modern woven food bag was also showcased, emphasising the fact that Sudan is still a centre of creative excellence. Credit to the British Museum for releasing these items for public consumption in other parts of the UK. The Smith Museum and Gallery is surrounded by gardens and is an oasis of calm just beyond the city centre. Its benefactor didn't live to see the completion of the project, dying unexpectedly in 1869, having formalised a public trust that same year. Smith was a highly regarded colourist and he amassed a huge private collection of paintings, many of which adorn the gallery walls today. His gift to the people of this old royal capital continues to impress visitors 150 years down the line.

I browsed the art collection, my eye being caught by an 1878 oil painting of Highland cattle by Joseph Denovan Adam - a subject in which he specialised. I also admired a depiction of the Venice Grand Canal by Edward Pritchett. The Pipe of Freedom was a striking portrait by Smith himself, showing an emancipated slave as an independent man. Considered radical at the time, the artwork was rejected by the Royal Academy in 1869 on political grounds. The entire gallery was devoted to the Smith legacy, both as an artist and a collector. In the next room, The Stirling Story is a permanent display examining the history of the city and the surrounding area. One of the oldest Royal Burghs, Stirling lies at the crossroads of Scotland's geography and history - sometimes described as the brooch that clasps the Highlands and Lowlands together. An old theory stated that whoever held the keys to Stirling Castle practically controlled the country. A series of major battles - including Stirling Bridge (1297) and Bannockburn (1314) - which changed the course of Scottish history, were fought in and around the royal seat of power. The town was also a great cultural centre and its central location made the place readily accessible. Roman remains have been found near Stirling, including a fort at Doune, which is thought to have included a hospital. Cambuskenneth Abbey was a Augustinian foundation from which the monarchs drew their advisors. King James III was buried there in 1488. Across the wider county, the abundance of mineral reserves placed Stirlingshire at the heart of the industrial revolution. The large iron foundries at Falkirk fuelled the rapidly changing way of life across the nation. Mining continued right up until the bitter strike of the 1980s, with local collieries featuring prominently in the struggle. An interesting exhibit was the "world's oldest football" - found behind wooden panels in Stirling Castle during renovation work in the late 1970s. Reckoned to date from the 1540s, the leather ball may even have been a childhood toy of Mary, Queen of Scots.

Containing an inflatable pig's bladder, the football is around half the size of the modern version. The professional sport we know today was formalised in the late 19th century but people have been kicking spherical objects around for far longer. The museum had tales of the Jacobite Rebellion and how this tumultuous period affected the Stirling area. As usual, many landowners and nobles put their own interests first and were not averse to switching allegiance in order to safeguard their privileged position. A random nugget to take home was the fact that Stirling had the world's first commercial fish farm. Howietoun was established in 1873 and is still operational, now part of the Department of Aquaculture at the city's university. I popped into the gift shop after my tour of the galleries. A Gaelic conversation class was taking place in the adjacent café. Do make the effort to wander along to the Smith, next time you explore the central parts of the old royal stronghold.

Loch Katrine Cruise

As part of my mum's 80th-birthday celebrations, we booked a steamship cruise along Loch Katrine in the Trossachs - an area of wooded hills and large bodies of fresh water. Nicole and I accompanied her on a chilly but sunny late-autumn afternoon. We paused for lunch in Callander - a Highland gateway town. The road out to Loch Katrine took us by Loch Venachar, through the picturesque Brig O' Turk village and past the grand Loch Achray Hotel. Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park was established in 2002 and features 21 Munro peaks. The Highland Boundary Fault runs right through the territory.

We waited on the pier as Sir Walter Scott was being prepared for departure. The 111-foot vessel was built on the banks of the River Clyde at Dumbarton. The next challenge was to transport the ship to the landlocked loch where she would ply her trade (replacing Rob Roy II). In sections, the boat was taken by barge up the River Leven, then on to the mighty Loch Lomond. Docking at Inversnaid, horse-drawn wagons were employed to lug the separate pieces overland to Stronachlachar, for reassembly on the shore of Loch Katrine. After a major refit in 2009, Sir Walter Scott is now licensed to carry 245 passengers. The craft is named after the legendary Scottish writer, whose works helped promote the captivating Highland landscapes and encouraged Victorian tourists to visit areas such as the Trossachs. Scott's famous poem Lady of the Lake was apparently inspired by his travels around the region. The railway reached Callander in 1858 and steam travel on Loch Katrine also dates from this era. We had booked a 2-hour cruise that would take us along to Stronachlachar and back. A 12-mile trip in total. Full commentary was provided throughout and a fully-stocked bar was available on board. It was a beautiful day and we sat out on deck, watching the countryside roll by at a leisurely pace in this remote corner of Perthshire. It was also possible to peer through am open flap and watch the steam engines work tirelessly. Loch Katrine sits within a glacial valley and functions as the main water reservoir for Glasgow. The deepest point is 154 metres and many streams feed in from the surrounding hills. Cities expanded rapidly during the 19th century and Glasgow's water supply infrastructure struggled to cope. A major cholera outbreak in 1847 prompted the authorities to seek a new source. A series of aqueducts and tunnels were constructed to convey the precious resource and the scheme was complete by 1859 - opened by Queen Victoria and costing a million pounds. The east end of the loch was dammed and its level raised by over a metre. Glasgow became known as the Second City of the Empire and the health of its citizens was transformed by the new water supply. The boat eventually reached the far end of the loch and docked at the hamlet of Stronachlachar, which has a café by the pier A number of people boarded, including several cyclists. A network of trails runs through the national park and Loch Lomond is only four miles distant from Stronachlachar as the crow flies. Bikes can be rented from Trossachs Pier.

As we turned around for the return leg, the white-painted Glengyle House was clearly visible on the shore at the extreme western point of the loch. The 18th-century three-storey dwelling was built on the site of a stone cottage where famous outlaw Rob Roy McGregor was allegedly born in 1671. The house had been in the hands of various water authorities since the 1930s but was released to the private market in 2004. A cattleman by trade, Rob Roy - like many clansmen - became caught up in the Jacobite cause. The politics of the time were complex and double dealing was rife. Many shifted their perspective as and when it suited their personal circumstances. Yet the movies would have you believe all belligerents had nailed their colours irretrievably to a particular mast and were guided solely by heart. Fictionalised accounts of Rob Roy's life have established him as a Highland folk hero and indeed the whole Jacobite affair was romanticised in books, poems and paintings years after the actual events took place. The clan tartans were largely Victorian inventions and it is now virtually impossible to distinguish myth from reality. But a good yarn brings in business. We chugged back to the starting point and the sun continued to shine. The cruise is worth taking for the scenery alone. You can also combine your sailings with walks at either end.

Lost Words Exhibition

A wildlife-themed exhibition at the Carnegie Galleries in Dunfermline? Let me think about that for a minute. Yes, I'm going. Nicole accompanied me and the event had just a few days left to run. Upon arrival, Nicole realised the source material was based on a book of illustrated poetry (in the form of spells) she had immensely enjoyed.

Published in 2017, The Lost Words was created as a response to the belief that children are losing touch with the natural world around them. A survey of primary school pupils suggested that 8-11 year olds are more confident identifying common Pokémon characters than our native flora and fauna. Most likely due to increasing urbanisation and the digitalisation of our existence. Apparently three quarters of British children spend less time outdoors than prisoners. Devised by writer Robert Macfarlane and artist Jackie Morris, the best-selling publication has inspired school children across Britain, winning numerous prizes along the way. Adults are also part of the target audience. The acclaimed work is an attempt to re-wild the language we use in our imaginations and the stories we tell. The spell format encourages people to read the text aloud and help conjure up references to vanishing wildlife vocabulary. Examples are kingfisher, bluebell, acorn, adder, bramble, conker and wren. Today's exhibition featured 18 poems – one for each disappearing term – and over 50 beautiful watercolour paintings. No photography was permitted in the gallery. I lifted the above promotional image from the museum website. Jackie Morris grew up in rural Worcestershire and has illustrated over 40 books, as well as working for the The Guardian and The New Stateman. She also collaborated with Poet Laureate Ted Hughes. Robert Macfarlane studied at Cambridge and his body of work has been translated in many languages and adapted for film, TV and radio. A notable volume is Wild Places (2007) - which describes a series of journeys made in search of the true wilderness that remains in Britain and Ireland. It was a thought-provoking experience to browse the material and absorb the fact that words I assumed were universal, are in fact slipping away. Those whose lifetimes have straddled the pre-internet days and the smartphone society can draw the best from both spheres, even use the technology to refresh and enhance old knowledge. For the children (and young adults) who know no other upbringing than a screen-focussed one, the future lies on a different path. The proverbial fork in the road.