Stirling Museum

I read about a British Museum Spotlight Loan coming to the Smith Museum and Art Gallery in the City of Stirling. The travelling exhibition explores the Kushi Kingdom - a civilisation that flourished in Sudan nearly 3000 years ago. It had been a few years since I had visited the Stirling cultural institution and I took the bus from Dunfermline on a Sunday morning.

Just a short walk from the main shopping precinct, the museum was founded in 1874 and funded by the estate of local artist Thomas Stuart Smith (1814-1869). Stirling Castle looms overhead and I arrived shortly after the opening time of 10am. The Kushi displays were arranged in the entrance hall and contained several pieces of artwork, along with information panels that explained the history of the ancient kingdom - which existed around 1200 years until the 4th century and was one of the largest empires in the old world, ruling from the Blue Nile to the Levant. The exhibition examines the skilled craftsmanship, distinct religious beliefs, and the important role of women within this society, as well as exploring the rich culture of modern-day Sudan - which is not defined by the ongoing fierce conflict in the region. Kush was rich in natural resources, including gold, ivory and animal skins. The kingdom resisted Roman expansion and exported goods to distant lands. Kings and queens commissioned elaborate temples and were buried beneath pyramid structures in the desert. The River Nile is the lifeblood of Sudan but the heritage is under threat, with many historical sites and museums located in combat zones. The current conflict erupted in 2023 and has devastated the African nation. Reports of looting and vandalism have surfaced and an international committee has been tasked with protecting the treasures. More benign forces such as urban sprawl and dam construction are impinging upon the cultural site. Impending climate change also has an impact. Kushites worshipped multiple gods, including local deities and Egyptian figures. Most of the surviving artefacts were found at wealthy burial sites. The small collection on display today included examples of decorated pottery and a bronze figurehead from a ceremonial boat. Some objects were positioned on a sandstone offering table - an important part of funeral rituals. A modern woven food bag was also showcased, emphasising the fact that Sudan is still a centre of creative excellence. Credit to the British Museum for releasing these items for public consumption in other parts of the UK. The Smith Museum and Gallery is surrounded by gardens and is an oasis of calm just beyond the city centre. Its benefactor didn't live to see the completion of the project, dying unexpectedly in 1869, having formalised a public trust that same year. Smith was a highly regarded colourist and he amassed a huge private collection of paintings, many of which adorn the gallery walls today. His gift to the people of this old royal capital continues to impress visitors 150 years down the line.

I browsed the art collection, my eye being caught by an 1878 oil painting of Highland cattle by Joseph Denovan Adam - a subject in which he specialised. I also admired a depiction of the Venice Grand Canal by Edward Pritchett. The Pipe of Freedom was a striking portrait by Smith himself, showing an emancipated slave as an independent man. Considered radical at the time, the artwork was rejected by the Royal Academy in 1869 on political grounds. The entire gallery was devoted to the Smith legacy, both as an artist and a collector. In the next room, The Stirling Story is a permanent display examining the history of the city and the surrounding area. One of the oldest Royal Burghs, Stirling lies at the crossroads of Scotland's geography and history - sometimes described as the brooch that clasps the Highlands and Lowlands together. An old theory stated that whoever held the keys to Stirling Castle practically controlled the country. A series of major battles - including Stirling Bridge (1297) and Bannockburn (1314) - which changed the course of Scottish history, were fought in and around the royal seat of power. The town was also a great cultural centre and its central location made the place readily accessible. Roman remains have been found near Stirling, including a fort at Doune, which is thought to have included a hospital. Cambuskenneth Abbey was a Augustinian foundation from which the monarchs drew their advisors. King James III was buried there in 1488. Across the wider county, the abundance of mineral reserves placed Stirlingshire at the heart of the industrial revolution. The large iron foundries at Falkirk fuelled the rapidly changing way of life across the nation. Mining continued right up until the bitter strike of the 1980s, with local collieries featuring prominently in the struggle. An interesting exhibit was the "world's oldest football" - found behind wooden panels in Stirling Castle during renovation work in the late 1970s. Reckoned to date from the 1540s, the leather ball may even have been a childhood toy of Mary, Queen of Scots.

Containing an inflatable pig's bladder, the football is around half the size of the modern version. The professional sport we know today was formalised in the late 19th century but people have been kicking spherical objects around for far longer. The museum had tales of the Jacobite Rebellion and how this tumultuous period affected the Stirling area. As usual, many landowners and nobles put their own interests first and were not averse to switching allegiance in order to safeguard their privileged position. A random nugget to take home was the fact that Stirling had the world's first commercial fish farm. Howietoun was established in 1873 and is still operational, now part of the Department of Aquaculture at the city's university. I popped into the gift shop after my tour of the galleries. A Gaelic conversation class was taking place in the adjacent café. Do make the effort to wander along to the Smith, next time you explore the central parts of the old royal stronghold.