St Abb's Head

This rocky headland on the Berwickshire coast has sheer cliffs, quirky stacks and narrow gullies. The area is a haven for around 60000 seabirds and is managed by the National Trust for Scotland, in cooperation with Scottish National Heritage. A clifftop path provides breathtaking sea views and we drove down the A1 to investigate. Actually we had stopped here many years ago, but that was in the pre-birdwatching era. I wonder how many people simply plough down the main east-coast route to England without realising such a beautiful coastal location lies a few miles across the fields.

The National Nature Reserve sits above St Abb's village and we snaffled one of the few remaining parking spaces. The National Trust has a small exhibition inside an end-terraced cottage. Entry the reserve is free but non-members are requested to pay the parking fee. A gently sloping greensward flanked the row of buildings, which housed a café, pottery and an excellent art and crafts shop. A campsite lay on the other side. We browsed the latter and purchased ice creams from the café to eat at a picnic table outside. It was a warm day and jackets were definitely not required. A short walk brought us to a viewpoint overlooking a small cove and we could see the gravel path snaking upwards and along the coastline. Upon reaching the clifftops we paused by a bench where a woman was taking in the view. She turned out to be German and was on an extended holiday in Scotland with her family. A long conversation (auf Deutsch) ensued but it was one of these situations where the other party wished only to talk about her own situation and views on (German) society. Nowt as queer as folk! Eventually her husband returned form his hike and we pressed onwards. Basically you follow the obvious route and enjoy the stunning coastal scenery. The trail then enters an area of grassland and we caught glimpses of the freshwater Mire Loch in the distance. The path continues to St Abb's Head Lighthouse, which marks the southern entrance to the Firth of Forth. Constructed in 1862, the lighthouse featured the first foghorn signal in Scotland - a service that lasted until 1987. Full automation of the lighthouse arrived in 1993 and the three rotating keepers departed. We only had a limited time on the reserve as we had arranged to meet a friend in North Berwick for dinner. We drove back up the A1 to the lovely coastal resort, where I spent my 50th birthday. North Berwick attracts many day trippers from Edinburgh and we were fortunate to find a space in one of the free car parks. The Scottish Seabird Centre stands on the shore and we had a quick snack there before meeting up with Andrea, who hails from central Manchester and had come up to Scotland by train to dog-sit for a client who owned a seaside property. We met Andrea years ago in a hostel and have kept in touch. Pet sitting in exchange for free accommodation is apparently a growing phenomenon online. It gives (suitably vetted) people the opportunity to have a subsidised break in a desirable location. Obviously you have the responsibility to care for the animal(s), which is why I'd limit myself to cats!

We wandered back to the house, past the open-air salt-water swimming pool and along the sandy beach. The spacious property had an upstairs lounge looking out to the North Sea. The owners were clearly worth a few quid. We decided to order pizza and I volunteered to collect the order on foot, the centre of North Berwick being very compact. I waited in the foyer of a restaurant for the grub and I could see the place was buzzing inside. The town has an affluent feel and it also benefits from having a direct rail connection to the capital. It is worth visiting for the Seabird Centre alone. There are excellent food and drink options along the long narrow High Street and a few arty shops. Check the place out.