Falkland Palace

The historic village of Falkland sits at the foot of East Lomond Hill in Fife. The settlement grew around Falkland Palace - a former country residence of Scottish monarchs. Mary, Queen of Scots, was a regular visitor. The grand building and its beautiful grounds are now managed by the National Trust. Being reasonably local to us, it was an easy property to tick off the list. Since re-joining the heritage organisation, our plan has been to visit one or two places per month. We had seen the inside of Falkland Palace around 15 years ago, when Nicole's parents came over from Germany. The time was right for a return trip.

We arrived late morning on a warm Sunday and our itinerary was a palace tour, followed by lunch in the formal gardens. One thing unavailable to view today was the tapestry collection, currently removed as a precautionary measure due to water ingress. A fine example of a Renaissance palace, Falkland was commissioned by James IV and his son James V between 1510 and 1541. A royal hunting lodge, later expanded to a castle, had previously stood on the site. James V died here in 1542, aged just 30. Legend insists his passing was brought about by the shock of his army's defeat at Solway Moss in a border conflict with English forces. It is more likely that James succumbed to cholera or dysentery. The next monarch to breathe his/her last in Scotland was Queen Elizabeth II in 2022. James was succeeded by his infant daughter Mary. His widow (Mary of Guise) stayed frequently at Falkland and the new queen made many recorded visits during her tumultuous reign. She enjoyed hunting, horse riding and tennis (more of that later). Following the Union of the Crowns in 1603, Falkland became less important as a royal retreat. Subsequent Stuart monarchs Charles I and II both came to Fife, but only briefly. The palace was damaged by fire during the Cromwellian Republic and began to decay from 1660 onwards. It was saved from complete ruin in the late 19th century by John Crichton-Stuart, 3rd Marquess of Bute. Innovative and in possession of deep pockets, the new owner gave the ailing building a new lease of life and his great-grandson Ninian lives on site today as hereditary Keeper. The National Trust entered the picture in 1952. The tour took us through the warren of recreated royal apartments. The ornate Falkland Bed was reputedly made for King James VI in 1618. The Queen's Room is laid out to reflect how Mary might have used it to entertain guests. The Chapel Royal is the only part of the palace where you can see original details. A wooden screen and ceiling date from 1540, when the place of worship was completed. The body of King James lay in state for a month here, following his death. The tour ended on an elevated balcony overlooking the gardens. A giant chessboard was painted on concrete below. Expanses of lush lawn were dotted with mature trees and we climbed down for a stroll through the three hectares of peaceful grounds. The gardens are not original. They were designed by Percy Cane in 1947 after a spell of potato growing for the war effort. With little surviving historic evidence to work from, Cane created a modern layout that is widely acknowledged for both its historic connections and artistic value. We found a shaded lunch spot in the bottom corner, near the glasshouse and beehives. Grapes were growing against a wall. Not a common sight in Scotland.

Falkland Palace has the world's oldest royal tennis court still in play. It was built around 1540 at the behest of James V. As a young king, he was looking to establish himself as a respected European leader. James had married the King of France’s daughter and had learned to play the sport overseas. The arena was fully restored in the 1950s and the local club has around 35 members who play all year round (despite the lack of a roof!). Visiting players can compete for a £10 daily fee. The court has four high walls, which are part of the playing area, as is the roof of the viewing gallery. Elements of squash here. Extra points can be gained by hitting the ball against various structures, or through the small holes carved into one end of the enclosure. Modern lawn tennis was introduced in the 1870s and is now a wealthy global sport. The much older ancestor is played on 45 courts around the world. The palace orchard is located across the Maspie Burn from the formal garden area. The compound is bounded by willow beds and has a deliberate unkempt feel. Mown grass strips can be followed past cherry, apple and pear trees. The presence of a mixed native hedge provides a valuable resource for local wildlife, as does the wildflower meadow. East Lomond Hill looms in the background and the Willow Queen sculpture stands in a central clearing. The figure represents Mary, Queen of Scots, who enjoyed hunting with her hawk within the palace grounds. Falkland is best visited on a bright day as there is a lot to see outdoors. The village itself is a charming destination.