Heritage Quarter Opera

Dunfermline gained official city status in 2023. While it can't be denied the High Street has suffered since our shopping habits as a nation changed, the compact Heritage Quarter is a real asset to the new city and makes Dunfermline an ideal location for a day trip or short stay. The public transport connections are good, with bus links to many parts of Central Scotland and regular trains arriving from Edinburgh.

Dunfermline is an ancient royal capital and several monarchs were born here - the last being Charles the first in 1600, who reigned over the whole of Britain until Oliver Cromwell intervened. Seven Scottish kings are interred at the abbey site, although only the tomb of Robert the Bruce (1274-1329) has any identifying features. Dunfermline was the home town of Hungarian-born Queen Margaret (1045-1093), Scotland's only canonised Saint. Today I was heading to a book sale in the Carnegie Library and I wandered through the adjacent graveyard. It's an ideal place to take in the character of the old town and the City Chambers spire dominates the skyline. The modern abbey church (erected 1821) incorporates parts of the ancient worship site and many tourists come into the choir to view the resting place of Robert the Bruce (whose name is also carved into the exterior balustrade of the tower and is visible from afar). In the far corner of the churchyard stand the remains of the royal palace. The structure largely reflects the form in which the building was remodelled by James IV around 1500. Following the 1603 Union of the Crowns, the Scottish court upped sticks for London and Dunfermline rarely hosted royal guests. The palace was finally abandoned halfway through the 17th century during the Cromwellian occupation of Scotland. Abbot House (pictured below) adjoins the abbey grounds. The A-listed property is the oldest in the city and is steeped in a rich heritage, dating back to at least the 16th century. The distinctive pink colour was applied in the 1990s when the building was lime washed, although it may have sported a similar hue in the past. The house is now owned by a charitable trust and - following a recent period of uncertainty - finance has been released to carry out extensive renovations. The café on the ground floor is an excellent place to enjoy refreshments and you can sit in the walled garden if the weather permits. Dunfermline's most famous son in relatively recent times is Andrew Carnegie (1835-1919) who emigrated to the United States as a boy. He amassed great wealth and donated large amounts in later life to his place of birth, in order to improve the quality of amenities for locals. Carnegie purchased the private Pittencrieff Estate and handed it over to the town. Known informally as "The Glen" - this stunning area of parkland abuts the Heritage Quarter and provides ample walking opportunities. One of Carnegie's passions was the availability of education to the masses. He had grown up in modest circumstances and eventually established over 2000 free public libraries across the globe, the original example being right here in Dunfermline.

Opened in 1883, the original premises were extended during the 20th century and a major new development began in 2014, when the library closed for two years to enable a museum and art gallery to be bolted on. The result is an excellent combination of old and new architecture and the galleries are perfect for a small city. Visitors can wander among the antique shelving units in the original library and proceed into the museum to learn about Dunfermline's history, or delve into one of the changing art exhibitions. The windows on the upper floors provide lovely views of the abbey and the surrounding land. Lending libraries have never stood still in a technological sense and you will find a computer suite nestled within the Victorian building. Today's book sale was located in one of the function rooms and a wide range of surplus stock from the Fife catalogue was offered at 50p per paperback and £1 for each hardback. I chose the option of picking up a cardboard box and filling it for a tenner. Items were disappearing quickly and it was fortunate that I'd arrived fairly early and was able to find enough titles of interest. Carnegie's fingerprints are all over Dunfermline and there is a museum dedicated to his life at the bottom end of the Heritage Quarter. The site includes the 18th-century weaver's cottage where Carnegie was born. His wife Louise Whitfield Carnegie (1857-1946) purchased the property in 1895 and visitors were first welcomed in 1908. A memorial hall was added in 1928 and now functions as the museum's main gallery. The displays focus on social history and admission is free. I have fully explored the Heritage Quarter over the years and today's mission was just a quick tour en route to the library. I now had to lug my box of books uphill to the bus station. If somebody reads this post and decides to visit Dunfermline for the first time, then the effort of writing has been worthwhile.

I found myself back inside the abbey the following weekend. I've been to a wide variety of concerts in my life - from heavy metal to classical, jazz and blues, but opera was a first for me. Four single performances of The Bruce were being staged around the country and the event was billed as a cathedral opera. The composer was 25-year-old Rahkhat-Bi Abdyssagin from Kazakhstan and the cast was drawn from the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland - an elite music college based in Glasgow. Tickets were free and I booked a couple online. My mum and sister also planned to attend. There must have been some public funding in place to put on the shows and the singers most likely students. It would be something different and I had nothing to lose. On the eve of the event, I received an email urging patrons to arrive early as all the capacity (circa 300) had been sold. It politely requested that any reserved tickets no longer required should be returned in order to reallocate them to those on the waiting list. By this point, Nicole had decided she would give it a miss and I messaged the booking agency to say I no longer had a plus-one. The original communication also stated there was only one toilet in the church and I made sure I didn't drink anything before heading into town to meet up with Linda and Mum. We wandered into the abbey and, er, took a pew. The performance was scheduled to last an hour and the composer said a few words before the start. The piece had been written to commemorate the 750th anniversary of Bruce's birth and was described as a new genre, designed to resonate with the acoustics of a cathedral interior. Following a 10-minute organ overture with live recitation by poet Alan Riach - Professor of Scottish Literature at Glasgow University - the singers launched into action, performing in front of the pulpit in a largely static manner. The text was in 14th-century Scots and printed inside the programme (with contemporary translation alongside). However, it seemed the language was largely irrelevant from a listening standpoint as the booming operatic tones were difficult to decipher, even if one could comprehend the written version. I quite enjoyed the spectacle and the crowd rose to its feet at the end, with a few fans queueing for selfies with King Robert. Mum has seen quite a few professional opera productions on large stages and pointed out that tonight's show was more akin to choral singing. Mainstream opera is acted out, as well as voiced. Still, it was nice to see the old church bursting at the seams, something that rarely happens at regular Sunday services as the resident minister had joked as she introduced the proceedings. A meal afterwards at a Brewer's Fayre restaurant sealed a fine evening out.

East Neuk Excursion

Beyond the industrial Levenmouth area on the Fife coast, a series of traditional fishing villages are encountered. This stretch is known as the East Neuk and is popular with tourists and day-trippers. Leven town will soon be connected to Edinburgh by rail and this new corridor should boost the economy of the wider East Neuk region as well. Nicole and I enjoy a drive up this way and we set off on a bright Saturday morning, bound for Pittenweem.

There was a reason for making this destination our first port of call. A chocolaterie (with attached café) is situated on the High Street and we had Christmas vouchers to spend. The Pittenweem Chocolate Company opened for business in 2007 and sources delicious treats from Scotland, Belgium and the wider world, including confectionery from hand-selected plantations. Owner Sophie Latinis is passionate about showcasing responsibly grown and unusual, exquisite flavours via the Fair Trade scheme. She also has her own bespoke range – Handmade in Pittenweem – including a series of single malt liqueur chocolates, presented in wooden gift boxes. Sophie discovered the East Neuk while over on holiday from her home country of Zimbabwe and she felt an instant attraction. The Cocoa Tree Café serves four types of hot chocolate along with a range of coffees and herbal teas. Sweet and savoury snacks are available, as is soup and artisan bread. We had a light lunch before purchasing a selection of chocolates from the front counter. A pleasant place to visit. The business is now back to full strength following the pandemic and a disastrous fire in the acclaimed chip shop next door. The popular takeaway had its entire interior gutted and has not yet reopened. We had a wander up and down the main drag, which sits high above the harbour. A glimpse down a narrow lane revealed a sea view and a cluster of fishing boats. Pittenweem is the last remaining truly commercial port in the East Neuk and catches are sold in the market hall. The presence of a working harbour benefits the local economy but doesn't necessarily provide a picture postcard setting. We didn't venture down today and decided to drive the short distance to St Monans, where we parked right by the seafront. The harbour is used mainly by pleasure craft and small vessels landing shellfish. The village has a history of boatbuilding but this trade has now vanished. One traditional industry to return to these shores involves the production of an ancient commodity. The East Neuk Salt Company was founded in 2019 and delivered its first batch of hand-harvested flakes two years later. Run by married couple Darren and Mhairi Peattie, the organic substance is in great demand and is the first salt to be crystallised at St Monans in 200 years. We strolled around the harbour, admiring the charming houses grouped along the shoreline.

The East Pier Smokehouse was closed until Easter but it brought back memories of an outdoor meal in the immediate post lockdown period. St Monans has three piers and the most famous is the breakwater that sticks out into the North Sea in zigzag fashion. It can be viewed by climbing halfway up a steel ladder set into the main harbour wall. We had a good view of the impressive Auld Kirk at the eastern end of the village, said to be the nearest place of worship to the sea in the whole of Scotland. The church authorities have confirmed they wish to divest themselves of the heritage property and hopefully a solution can be found that includes the local community. There was some bird action in the harbour basin and we saw curlew and redshank pottering about in the mud. Our next destination was Bowhouse - a collection of artisan food and drink businesses within an old farm steading on the Balcaskie Estate, near Elie. The stated aim is to connect small-scale concerns with restaurants and shoppers, giving everyone better access to the delightful wares the East Neuk has to offer. Much of the seafood and farm produce leaves the region before local people have a chance to see what's available. A number of pigs were rooting around inside an enclosure by the main entrance. The Bowhouse project attempts to redress the trading situation and a market is held on the second Saturday and Sunday of each month. Nine retailers operate within the complex (plus two plots outside) and around half of them were open when we arrived for a look around. I couldn't believe my luck when I left the car-park and stumbled right into a brewery! Futtle creates organic beers alongside seasonal spirits and ferments (such as kombucha). The on-site shop also stocks wines and ciders from other small organic growers. Futtle was established in 2019 and the water comes from a borehole just behind the brewery building. The wide range of organic ales is fully certified by the Soil Association. I entered the bar/shop area where draught was available at £5 per pint. Since I was driving, I sought out a few cans, priced at £4 each. The whole place had a definite hipster craft-beer vibe and a vinyl record played in the corner, where a few racks contained LP's for sale.

The intimate venue has a regular programme of live music events - from local entertainers to touring artists. It seems a worthy venture and I enjoyed the beer at home over the rest of the weekend. Nice to become acquainted with another brewer on the Fife scene. I had a quick look at the Bowhouse Butchery, which offers beef and lamb from grass-fed livestock on the surrounding estate. Whole carcasses are cut up on the premises and there was a full spectrum of choice for the buyer - from prime steaks to offal. Wild venison is sourced from Balcaskie and the small herd of Tamworth pigs lives outside all year. The breed is a natural forager and will find the best available nutrients in any environment. As we were leaving, we saw a flock of corn bunting fly overhead and settle in a distant tree. We crossed the road to the field boundary and pulled out our binoculars. It was a dim day and the birds were a little too far away to secure confirmed identification, but the general appearance fitted and there had been several sighting of corn buntings in this very area the day before. The lowland farmland bird - the largest of the buntings - is often seen perched on wires or posts. A dramatic population decline in the UK makes it a Red List species. A few hundred yards down the road, we halted at Ardross Farm Shop, a family-run business adjacent to the Fife Coastal Path. The selection of goodies is excellent and we filled a basket. Among our purchases were three goose eggs. I could also have bought the Futtle beer at 70p a can cheaper than what the actual brewery charged. You live and learn. We drove home via Elie and were then diverted through Kilconquhar (pronounced Kinnucker) - the first time I had been in the village centre. Another memorable day in the East Neuk.

Dundee break

I always have a free Thursday and Friday in the middle of February and this year we booked a hotel in Dundee for a couple of nights. Nicole had to study in the city on both days but I planned to explore and of course we could meet in the evenings. We travelled up on the first train and left our bags at the modern 120-bed Sleeperz Hotel, right next to the station. Opened in 2018 as part of the waterfront redevelopment, the curved frontage looks out over two major visitor attractions - RRS Discovery and the V & A Museum of Design.

Sleeperz specialises in stylish and affordable city-centre accommodation. The company also has a presence in Newcastle and Cardiff and all three hotels are highly convenient for rail travellers. Dundee has experienced an uplift in hotel capacity over the last decade, with the stylish Malmaison (pictured) coming on stream in 2014. The late Victorian building opposite Sleeperz was fully refurbished after a spell of decline. The train had been fairly quiet on the way up from Inverkeithing. We all take things in our own region for granted and most people don't get particularly excited about travelling on the line between Edinburgh and Dundee. It is however one of the great British railway journeys. You cross two wide estuaries on majestic bridges and there are great sea views to enjoy on the Fife coast. Nicole headed to university and and I jumped on a bus to the outskirts of the Dundee municipal area near Monifieth. The plan for today was to walk an 8-mile section of the Green Circular trail. Loosely following the city council boundaries, the path runs for 25 miles and is also cycle friendly. I had completed a similar distance on my previous visit to Dundee and began today's route by following the Dighty Burn through a wooded glen. There was a constant misty drizzle - the type of weather that doesn't seem so bad if you're out in it for five minutes. But over the course of my walk I got steadily wetter. Nothing for it though, but to plough on. I soon encountered the grand seven-arch Balmossie Viaduct that carried the Dundee to Forfar railway (closed completely in 1967). Opened in 1870, the line provided a direct link to the county town of Angus and its agricultural hinterland. The 17-mile route swung away from the main coastal line at Broughty Ferry and headed north. The formation can easily be traced across the fields on satellite maps but the urban section has been obliterated by new roads and housing, meaning the connection will never re-open. The 150-yard viaduct stands alone in the den, rising to a height of 75 feet. The A-listed structure was formally converted to walkway around 20 years ago and I had previously passed over while staying in Monifieth.

Today the path took me through an archway and the persistent rain discouraged me from climbing the steps to the top of the viaduct. My mission was to keep moving forward. I exited the woodland and skirted several housing estates. All traces of the railway had disappeared here. Passenger services were withdrawn as far back as 1955 due to increased competition from road vehicles. Forfar lost its large railway station in 1967 and by 1982 all freight links to the town had been cut. A sad end to a busy railway interchange that once saw several lines converge. Rail journeys in the County of Angus are now restricted to the coastal run. Back on the walking trail, I found navigation easy as the route is well signposted. I emerged on the A92 and followed a tarred cycleway atop a grassy embankment. I spotted a retail park in the distance which would allow me to escape the rain for a short while and use the toilet facilities. An information board told me about Claypotts Castle, slightly off the Green Circular. I decided to bash on and research the building at a later date. Maintained by Historic Environment Scotland, the castle is now surrounded by residential properties and is one of the best-preserved examples in the country of a 16th-century tower house. The building consists of projecting towers at opposite sides of a rectangular main block, known as a z-plan. Entry isn't possible at the moment but the exterior can easily be viewed. I must stop for a look on a nicer day. The official route went right past a Sainsbury's superstore and I nipped into a warm and dry environment. Fortunately the trail soon bent away from the dual carriageway and for the next three and a half miles I paralleled the Dighty Burn. It wasn't the prettiest of strolls - taking me between several sets of industrial premises - but at least it was traffic free and wherever there's clean flowing water, you will find some form of wildlife. My theory was proven when a dipper darted by. Our largest aquatic songbird searches for food underwater, withstanding strong currents in the process. Seeing Dippy McDipper in action certainly alleviated the gloomy nature of my walk. I passed a group of exercise machines installed on the river bank and also noted a breaker's yard with cars stacked several storeys high. Curiously, all the tyres had been removed. They must have been the easiest pickings. I wandered by a football ground, home of Dundee St James, and also spotted a BMX track.

Pictured right is Balmossie Viaduct from the beginning of my journey. As I walked through parkland between residential areas - still following the Dighty - I came across another arched structure that clearly belonged to a bygone age. A long and low slender stone viaduct with a dozen arches spanned the valley containing the burn. My first thought was an old railway but I wasn't aware of any lines running up this way. It might have been an industrial link and I resolved to research the matter when I returned home. What I discovered was indeed fascinating. The bridge wasn't built to carry trains but instead conveyed a water main into the city from a reservoir at Monikie. The 166-yard Finlathen Aqueduct was constructed in 1846 and is reckoned to be the largest of its type designed for public water supply. The structure was originally covered with turf to keep the pipes cool in summer and provide protection from frost in winter. The system soon became overwhelmed as Dundee rapidly expanded and - despite the fitting of an extra pipe in 1862 - the Loch of Lintrathen was utilised as an additional water source. The aqueduct was converted to a public footpath in the mid-20th century as new peripheral housing appeared. School pupils frequently used the crossing but tragedy struck in 1998 when rival gangs staged a pitched battle and 15-year-old John Kidd died after being struck on the head with a rock. Repairs became a necessity in the early-2000s as time caught up with the Victorian bridge and it was closed in 2019 when a section of wall crumbled away due to water saturation. Following a local campaign, Dundee City Council agreed to spend around £1 million on a full restoration programme that was to last three years. It is now back in public use, providing a very useful link within an area of green space.

The path led me below the aqueduct and the rain dissuaded me from taking time out to explore the top. As it happened, I met a sign informing me the next section of footpath was closed for resurfacing. I could see men working in the distance and I formulated a quick detour along a nearby street. As I walked up a grass bank, I was able to look down upon the aqueduct from my vantage point. That would suffice for today! A high footbridge took me over the busy A90 (the main road to Aberdeen) and the traffic noise dissipated as I returned to the Dighty and approached Trottick Nature Reserve. The fast-flowing burn was once used to power over 30 mills and I stood on the spot where a derelict example was demolished in the late 1970s. I passed a SUDS basin (Sustainable Urban Drainage System) which collects run-off from roads and paving, allowing the water to soak away naturally rather than cause flooding issues. Foreign bodies such as gravel simply sink to the bottom of the pool. Wetland plants are becoming established in the basin and the long-term aim is to attract wildlife. The 14-mile Dighty is now a ribbon of pure water and the days of industrial pollution are a fading memory. The Trottick mill ponds played an important role in the production of linen at the Claverhouse bleachfield works. Created over 200 years ago and connected to the Dighty by a system of sluices and lades (still in use today to help manage the reserve), the ponds provided a steady supply of water for the industrial process. On a warm afternoon, this oasis of tranquillity would have been a lovely location to enjoy a leisurely packed lunch. Today I perched myself on the edge of a bench and hastily consumed my sandwiches before moving on. The ducks and geese in the water went about their business as usual. Trottick is a designated conservation area and traces of the linen industry can be identified in the surrounding streets. Many cottages built to house workers are still standing and parts of an old mill have been incorporated into modern residential developments. An imposing chimney and clocktower are easy to spot.

I passed up the opportunity to wander through the bleachfield meadow. This is where the linen was finished off. After treatment with chemicals, the fabric was laid out to dry and lighten in the sun. I exited the reserve and found myself back in residential territory. I walked a mile along Harestane Road, which took me past Baldragon Academy. A new-build complex, with an adjacent primary school and nursery, the integrated campus covers a large footprint and cost around £30 million. A swimming pool and numerous all-weather sports pitches were part of the deal. I finally reached the point where my previous Green Circular walk (in the opposite direction) had ended and I followed Strathmartine Road back towards the city centre, two and a half miles away. Through the district of Downfield and over the Kingsway (A90), a dual carriageway that runs on an east-west axis and basically cuts Dundee in half. I passed by the tenements of Coldside and into Hilltown, where many of the tower blocks have vanished from the inner-city landscape. I finally reached the back entrance to the Wellgate shopping centre, stepping into much-needed warmth. In my student days (early 90s), the Wellgate thronged with people but - like many other malls - footfall has seriously declined since the widespread use of online commerce. The centre is built into the foot of a sharp incline and you enter at the top level from the Hilltown side. This floor contains a food court but only Burger King is still trading. The market hall of independent outlets has been closed since the turn of the century. On the plus side, a gym has opened and the central library is still there. I worked my way down to ground level via the two middle floors and noticed a few empty units. The business model has clearly changed, with bargain stores (and even a charity shop) now occupying prominent positions. A sign of the times. Having put in the hard miles, the next couple of hours had been set aside for a couple of pints in Wetherspoons and the chance to dry off. I found a quiet corner next to a radiator and relaxed with a book. Two thirds of the Green Circular were now complete and I had already done the other part along the coast before becoming aware of the formal trail. My work here was done.

I met up with Nicole when she finished her lessons and we went back to Sleeperz for a nap (and a change of clothes for me). We had dinner in the Trades House - a Belhaven chain pub that serves hearty fare. A series of stained glass windows depict the traditional city occupations. The bar area was set up for sports viewing, with multiple large screens. Food was served in a corner snug and the service was swift and friendly. Afterwards we walked down to Discovery Point where the V & A Museum was illuminated. The famous polar vessel RSS Discovery sits in an adjacent dock. We were perfectly satisfied with the hotel furnishings and our room looked over the waterfront streets. The breakfast buffet had a good selection of hot and cold options and I couldn't resist reaching for a small packet of Cocoa Pops - my favourite childhood cereal. I had a more leisurely programme ahead of me today and first up was a visit to HMS Unicorn - Dundee's other maritime heritage attraction. The ship is permanently anchored in Victoria Dock, just beyond the city centre. Today the quayside hosts leisure facilities, retail outlets and modern residential apartments. HMS Unicorn dates from 1824 and is the oldest British-built ship still afloat. She is a rare naval survivor from the days of sail and was built at Chatham Royal Dockyard in Kent. Originally conceived as a 46-gun frigate, Unicorn arrived at Dundee in 1873 as a training facility for the Royal Naval Reserves – a role she carried out until the late 1960s. The ship was never rigged upon completion as the Napoleonic Wars had ended and there was no call for her to be launched into active service. A superstructure was erected over the main deck and Unicorn was destined to function as a hulk. I thought the £8.80 admission charge was reasonable as there was a lot to explore. The tour began with a video presentation in a separate room before I proceeded up the gangplank. I had visited once before, over 20 years ago. The ship back then was geared towards staging events and the public exhibits took a back seat. Now the reverse is the case and Unicorn is marketed fully as a museum.

I had to mind my head as I roamed around the deck space. Six-foot-plus sailors must have been a rarity in pre-Victorian times! Frigates had less firepower than a first-rate warship but they had the advantage of being easier to manoeuvre in battle. Unicorn was equipped with carronades which could fire heavier ammunition over shorter distances. The nimble frigate was therefore a highly effective member of a fighting fleet. Descending to the lower level, I viewed the captain's quarters. The quality of crew accommodation was determined strictly by rank, with the ordinary seamen having to make do with simple hammocks. The provision of fresh drinking water on sailing ships was a key issue and it was strictly rationed. I passed through the gun room, mess deck and learned about how the men lived on naval vessels in days gone by. Discipline was strictly enforced! During WW2, Unicorn became the first and only Georgian warship to be staffed by females. The Women's Royal Naval Service established a regional headquarters here and over 1500 recruits were trained in the art of wireless communication. They were billeted four to a room in Mather's Hotel (now the Malmaison). Unicorn also accepted the formal surrender of a German U-boat in the dying days of the conflict. The Unicorn Preservation Society was founded in 1968 to protect the future of the historic wooden craft - designed by naval architect Robert Seppings. The son of a cattle salesman, young Robert found work as an apprentice shipwright and went on to introduce several new construction techniques, pioneering the use of "iron knees" to strengthen the ship and reduce the need for specially grown compass timbers which were becoming increasingly difficult to source. The UPS was granted ownership of the old lady and public access has been available since 1975. With Unicorn now exactly 200 years old, the society is working tirelessly to steer the ship through a critical conservation phase. Every plank has been surveyed using the latest technology and the structural condition has been thoroughly analysed by computer software. Repairing a vessel of this age is of course a highly specialised operation and the ultimate aim is to preserve the original fabric as far as possible. A temporary steel roof has been installed in order to keep Unicorn wind and watertight as a plan is drawn up.

It had been a fascinating tour and an interesting lesson in naval history. I wandered over to have a look at the other vessel moored in Victoria Dock. North Carr Lightship is 100 feet long and the last of her type remaining in Scotland. Her purpose was to warn mariners by sight, light or sound of the dangers of the North Carr rocks at the turning point between the Forth and Tay estuaries. Built in Glasgow and launched in 1933, she was anchored off Fife Ness until 1975, when an automated lighthouse was installed. The ship's fog horn had a range of 10 miles and kept other vessels well away from the hazards. Disaster struck in 1959 when Scotland was battered by one of the worst storms in years. North Carr broke free from her moorings and began drifting helplessly northwards. A lifeboat crew from Broughty Ferry received the distress signal and launched a rescue mission. Unfortunately the lifeboat Mona capsized in heavy seas and the seven crew members were drowned. The sailors on the lightship were eventually picked up by helicopter. After decommissioning, North Carr was purchased by Northeast Fife Council and brought to Anstruther Harbour to function as a floating museum until 1995. The present owners Taymara (Tay Maritime Action, a voluntary sector organisation) bought the decaying vessel for £1 in 2010 but recently announced the only realistic option is to deconstruct the ship in the near future. The hull has suffered a significant level of degradation and further damage has been caused by multiple leaks. The charity does not possess the means to attempt a restoration and North Carr will set sail for the scrap heap unless a white knight rushes in at the last minute. I headed back towards the city centre, catching a tempting whiff of an Indian buffet restaurant as I left the City Quay complex. Dining was temporarily off the menu as I was still feeling full from breakfast. Next on the list was a visit to the McManus Galleries - a grand Victorian museum that houses the Dundee collection.

Opened in 1867, the building was designed in Gothic style by Sir George Gilbert Scott and features eight galleries over two floors. Admission is free and I have visited many times. If you're in the city and have spare time on your hands, you should explore the centrally located McManus at your leisure. There are exhibitions of art, natural history and the environment. The story of the city's development is covered in great detail and special displays are often on show upstairs. I had a quick look at the familiar galleries then climbed the grand staircase to see what was new. The McManus collection is recognised as being one of national significance to Scotland and all additions - whether donated or purchased - are carefully considered to ensure they complement and enrich the existing body of work. The institution has always supported living artists by exhibiting and acquiring contemporary pieces. I entered the special gallery to browse some of the latest additions to the museum's catalogue. One painting that caught my eye was Who's Afraid of the New Technology, 1987, by Alan Robb, who was Head of Fine Art at Duncan of Jordanstone College in Dundee. The artwork is pictured above and the title indicates that Robb was aware of the creative freedoms offered by the approaching digital revolution in the creative spheres. Another temporary exhibition space showcased a collection of printmaking works, featuring various techniques. Historically, this medium was considered secondary to painting and sculpture, but views began to change in the 1960s as artists sought new methods of conveying personal expression. Printmaking was also an accessible art form to students as the production costs involved were low. The display didn't strike a chord with me and I moved on to the traditional paintings in the permanent gallery.

The Blackbird Song, 1908, (pictured left) by Edward Atkinson Hornel was painted in oils and depicts his trademark theme of young girls in a landscape setting. Brought up in Kirkcudbright, Hornel studied in Edinburgh and Antwerp before becoming part of the Glasgow Boys movement. This collective consisted of several men, most of whom were trained in, or had strong ties to the city of Glasgow. The subject matter featured rural and prosaic scenes from in and around the city. Their colourful depictions attempted to capture the many facets of the character of life in Scotland. In 1901 Hornel purchased Broughton House in Kirkcudbright, which was his main residence for the rest of his life. There he made several modifications to the property and garden, taking inspiration from his travels in Japan. Hornel also added a gallery to hold his paintings. After the artist's death in 1933, his sister continued to live at Broughton until she passed in 1950, after which the townhouse was transferred to the National Trust for Scotland. In his will, Hornel stated his residence should be preserved as a public art gallery for the benefit of Kirkcudbrightshire and visitors thereto. I must check the place out sometime. I finished off the afternoon in Wetherspoons and waited for Nicole to finish at university. Belhaven 80-shilling ale was available for the bargain price of £1.90 and I drank a couple of welcome pints. We walked down to the waterfront and managed to grab a table in a Thai restaurant. After a nice meal, we decamped to the St Andrews Brewing Company, whose spacious premises are located behind the imposing Caird Hall (a major concert and conference venue). The bar has around 20 beers on tap and there is a separate restaurant area. I enjoyed a pint of Fife Gold and thought back to the days when the company sold mini-casks at local farmers markets. On our final day, the train wasn't due to depart until 3.30pm and the plan was to view the Dundee Tapestry display at the V&A Museum. After another buffet breakfast, we strolled along the promenade for a mile, turning round at the Tay Bridge and finishing up at the futuristic looking museum perched on the shoreline.

On my two previous visits, I hadn't been too enthralled by the decorative arts displays (barring a few exceptions) but I was looking forward to seeing the tapestry. It tells the story of the city and its people via 35 individual hand-stitched panels, much like the touring Great Tapestry of Scotland we saw several years ago in Kirkcaldy and which now resides permanently in Galashiels, Selkirkshire. The Dundee version focusses on a timeframe from the mid-19th century to the present day and the collaborative project brought together members of the community through craft groups, social networks and in-person events. The project was conceived and developed by John Fyffe of the Weaver Incorporation of Dundee and Dr Frances Stevenson, senior lecturer at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art & Design. Additional input came from Andrew Crummy, the artist behind the Great Tapestry of Scotland. A team of 140 volunteers from Dundee and the surrounding area created the panels and the result is captivating. The upper concourse was bustling with people admiring the tapestry (it was a Saturday morning) and each piece represented a different flavour of city life. I learned that Dundee once boasted 75 cinemas and the first motion picture was screened in 1896. Ninewells Hospital was named after the surrounding natural springs that once flowed through this part of the city. The less savoury aspects of industrial heritage were acknowledged; the linen trade was built on slave labour and links to that era still exist today through statues, buildings and street names. Arctic whaling was big business in the 19th century and a fleet of ships was based at Dundee. Whale oil was a valuable commodity, in demand as an industrial lubricant as well as for heating and lighting purposes. Whalebone was also profitable and thankfully these giant mammals can now roam the oceans mostly in peace. The Nine Incorporated Trades of Dundee is an organisation formed in the 16th century to represent the traditional crafts of bakers, cordiners (shoemakers), glovers, tailors, bonnet makers, fleshers (butchers), hammermen (metal workers), weavers and dyers. The federation remains active today and supports a number of good causes around the city.

Dundee has forged strong links with the medical profession and the university has a global reputation for research. The traditional heavy industry was the production of jute - a natural fibre used in ropemaking and textile production. By late Victorian times, more than 120 mills were in operation but the trade eventually declined due to globalisation, the last plant closing in 1999. Many jute buildings have been repurposed over the years and are not hard to spot when walking around old parts of the city. There was a tapestry square dedicated to the Dundee music scene, which has produced big-selling acts such as Deacon Blue, The View and Snow Patrol. Journalism was, naturally, represented. The illustration above contains characters from two comics known to everyone over 45 - the Beano and Dandy. The latter sadly ceased publication in 2012. The Courier newspaper was established in 1801 and is widely read across Angus, Fife and Perthshire. The parent company, DC Thomson, issued a wide range of magazines and comics over the decades, although this market has declined since the mass availability of t'internet. I found the tapestry thoroughly absorbing and would recommend it to anyone with an interest in Scottish history. The homeward train was bound, rather strangely, for Peterborough and it whisked us back to Inverkeithing. The City of Discovery had not disappointed.