Abbot House Open Day

Stroll along Maygate in Dunfermline and you can't miss Abbot House in its resplendent pink limewash (applied in the 1990s). The oldest dwelling in the city has a history stretching back to the 16th century and it has survived wars, religious unrest and the Great Fire of 1624. Sitting in the shadow of the mighty abbey, Abbot House functioned as a heritage centre in recent years until a funding dispute led to closure in 2015.

Now happily back in business, a café and giftshop are firmly established on the ground floor. The middle level contains rooms available for hire and recent workshops include origami, herbal wellbeing and chocolate truffle making (yes please!). The upper floor is divided into units for creative small businesses. Major renovation work began in 2019, with help from the Carnegie Dunfermline Trust, Fife Council, the Architectural Heritage Fund, Historic Environment Scotland and the Common Good Fund. Grants totalling over £600,000 were awarded with the expectation that the project will be self-sustaining in the years to come. The venue was included on this year's Doors Open Day schedule for Dunfermline and I headed along to view the progress. I am already familiar with the ground floor layout and I proceeded directly upstairs. Like any major building of this age, several extensions and upgrades have been added over the centuries. Likewise, a colourful array of occupants have resided in Abbot House, including merchants and tailors, along with a naval captain, glass stainer and pharmacist. Other uses for the place have been an art school and a doctor's surgery. The Dunfermline Carnegie Trust acquired the whole property in 1948. It is now category-A listed. The principal room on the first floor features a frescoed wall painting (dated to 1571) and part of a tracery window. Upstairs, I viewed the spectacular ceiling mural, painted in 1995 by Glaswegian artist Alasdair Gray (1934-2019), who also found fame as a writer. His debut novel Lanark (1981) is regarded as a Scottish fiction classic. His artwork in Abbot House depicts the history of Dunfermline and its people. The traditional trades were listed and were learn that the Burgh of Dunfermline was in favour of the Covenant (1650) but opposed the union with England in 1707. Meanwhile, serfdom was abolished in Scottish mines at the turn of the 19th century. Weaving was an important local industry and in 1869, a club was formed to help weavers buy their own homes. The scheme grew into the Dunfermline Building Society - the largest lender of this type in Scotland. It merged with Nationwide in 2009. Town or city, the place is always changing.

I wandered by the various craft studios in the attic space - noting that business cards are very much still thing, although they now promote an Instagram page. Old and new promotional tools seamlessly working together. Abbot House has gone through many guises and now seems settled in its role as a long-term community asset. The café has a cloistered feel and there is also outdoor seating in the walled garden. the layout was created in 1995 for a BBC broadcast of Beechgrove Garden - the hit squad, an offshoot of the long-running series where dilapidated formal gardens were given a much needed makeover. The revised design incorporates a herb corner dedicated to Lady Anne Halkett, who resided in Abbot House in the late 1600s. She was a practising apothecary and people flocked from near and far to ease their ailments. Unfortunately the adjacent microbrewery was a victim of the recent closure and no longer trades. Overall, Dunfermline has certainly upped its game since being awarded city status two years ago and there are plenty of events and attractions for locals and visitors alike. Abbot House sits in the shadow of the famous abbey and is a true historic gem.

Fife Doors Open 2024

That time of year again. Various venues across Fife were opening up to the public and offering a glimpse behind the scenes. My mum and I decided to start in Kirkcaldy before driving along the coast to Burntisland. Kirkcaldy Town House was first on the agenda and a tour was getting ready to depart just as we arrived. The B-listed building was completed in 1956 and initially serves as the headquarters for Kirkcaldy Town Council. When this administration was dissolved in 1975 and larger local government units formed across the country, the provost's lamps (pictured below) from the surrounding burghs were stationed outside the Town House as Kirkcaldy District Council was created. I must have walked past the lamps a thousand times without knowing what they represented.

Heading up the grand staircase (of course), I gazed at the mural depicting the trades of Kirkcaldy and scenes from daily life. The first room we entered had a portrait of King Charles flanked the Saltire and Union Jack. This suite is used to perform British citizenship ceremonies, where I presume the attendees have to swear an oath to the monarch. Out in the corridor, a wooden board listed all the Kirkcaldy Provosts sworn in between 1800 and 1972. A few even came back for a second go! Town and regional government structures may alter from time to time, but the one constant here is the County of Fife, a historic territory defined for many centuries. An interesting display was the Kirkcaldy town bell - rescued from a scrapyard in 1966. It was cast in 1882 and had formerly been housed within the original town house on the High Street (demolished in 1935). Construction of the new facility began in 1939 but was immediately halted by the outbreak of WW2, leaving just the steel skeleton in place. Another wall display showed the names of nine famous Kirkcaldy folk. The two most recognisable were Adam Smith and Michael Nairn. Smith is widely regarded as the founding father of modern economics theory and Nairn launched the linoleum industry that led to the Lang Toun becoming a global player in the trade. Interestingly, the only female included is child prodigy Marjorie Fleming. A writer and poet, she died just short of her ninth birthday from meningitis. We strolled through various reception rooms. The town house hosts wedding ceremonies and a recent development is the teaching of English to refugees. Kirkcaldy District Council was scrapped in 1996 and Fife became a unitary authority. The town house now functions as the headquarters of a local area committee. Housing applications are processed here, for example. There is an opulent air about the interior and - as Mum pointed out - no matter the stories about cutbacks and belt tightening, the main council offices tend to be plush. It was an interesting tour and we continued our exploration in Burntisland, stopping for lunch at a small café in the town centre. I wanted to check out the latest exhibition in the Heritage Trust building on Kirkgate, dealing with the changing face of the High Street using "then and now" photographs. Another open day was taking place upstairs in the old council chambers, enabling us to kill two birds with one stone. The heritage centre displays can be viewed any weekend but extra volunteers were on hand for Doors Open Day. Mum recognised one elderly lady. She turned out to be Dr Gordon who had practised alongside our family GP, Dr Wright, and had sometimes deputised for him. A painting showed the long-gone sugar house (built circa 1765) by the harbour, with Rossend Castle in the background, which survives today as a private residence. Sugar was refined in Burntisland until the mid-1790s. After a period of dereliction, the building was acquired in 1876 and enlarged to form a linseed oil mill. The town attained Royal Burgh status in 1540. There had been little development, apart from around the harbour area. Therefore some planning was involved in the layout of streets, rather than the settlement simply growing organically. Even as late as the 1980s, buildings were lopped off the bottom of the High Street to create a car park. Burntisland has long been in a state of flux.

In 1954, several dwellings were converted into a new police station (plus five houses for officers) but the facility now lies empty. Big changes took place on the High Street in the 1950s when 18th-century housing was replaced with modern flats. It may well have been the case that costs were prohibitive in order to bring the old properties up to the required standard. A Georgian house made way for the new Crown Post Office. This too is now vacant - a sign of the times. Prior to the internet, it would have been unthinkable that a place the size of Burntisland would not have any postal facilities. The building we stood in dates from 1845 and at one time housed the post office on the ground floor. The burgh chambers were in use until 1975, when all administrative units of this type across Scotland were dissolved. Fife-born philanthropist Andrew Carnegie gifted £3500 to finance the public library, opened by the man himself in 1907. After early cinema ventures closed in the 1930s, the Palace took over as the town's movie theatre and - quite incredibly - offered seating for 1040 patrons. It was converted to an amusement arcade in the early 70s and destroyed by arson in 1985. After many years of decay, the building was finally demolished in 2008 and the site awaits redevelopment. Across the road from the Heritage Trust stands the cavernous Museum of Communications. Well worth a visit, it was formerly the ex-servicemen's club but the building is relatively new. The exhibition also featured the various shops run by the Co-op, a common arrangement in small towns. The gasworks were owned by the local council until nationalisation in 1949. Town gas was made locally by heating coal until the discovery of natural gas under the North Sea in the 1960s changed the country's energy network. The common ground to the east of the town is known as the Links. Previously used for grazing clothes bleaching and drying, the grassy space is now a popular recreational area. It was fascinating to see the old images of Burntisland and the staff were most helpful.

To reach the burgh chambers upstairs, we had to exit the heritage centre and use another door around the corner. Straight away we were greeted by the sight of another large town bell. Originally made in 1585, it began working life in Berwick, before being purchased by Burntisland Town Council in 1619 for £36.50. Installed in the old tolbooth (pictured above), the bell was in service until the building's demolition in 1843. The modern Burgh Chambers were completed a few years later. We proceeded upstairs to view the room where Burntisland Town Council conducted its business until 1975 (pictured right). Once again, a well-appointed meeting space. The facility is now used by Burntisland Community Council - an organisation affiliated to the local authority (Fife Council). Although devoid of any real political clout, community councils across Scotland act as a conduit of public opinion and are always consulted about planning applications. Community Councils also monitor local infrastructure such as footpaths, public parks and play areas. Due to safety concerns, the steeple was removed from the Burgh Chambers building in 2013, leaving just a stump. Restoration is planned and the required stone has been purchased, but is languishing in storage until funds can be raised to finance the job. We also toured the old magistrate's room where petty offences could be swiftly processed by the Burgh Court. There's no magic formula for local government and justice procedures. Devolving down to town level brings accountability, but every layer ultimately adds complexity and impacts upon the public purse. On our way to the final venue on the list, we passed Hanselled Books - a second-hand outlet that should have been open, but wasn't. A pity, as Mum and I both like a good rummage in these places. Burntisland Parish Church is one of earliest Scottish post-Reformation churches still in use today. Occupying higher ground to the south of the High Street, the place of worship (built in 1592) overlooks the harbour. The building is square in plan, with the nave surrounded by four aisles. Each wall has a gallery, giving the church a large capacity. The main structure is supported by four thick stone columns, one at each corner. The minister is able to preach from a central position, thus providing an inclusive atmosphere. An enthusiastic guide gave us a comprehensive tour of the interior.

The building takes its place in history for hosting the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland in 1601, a gathering that eventually led to the inception of the King James Bible (or Authorised Version). At the time, plague was rife in Edinburgh and the event was rescheduled for St Andrews. However, the King injured himself in a hunting accident while staying at Rossend Castle and - as Burntisland had a clean bill of health - the assembly was invited to gather in the town kirk. During the course of the business, the Presbyters proposed a new English translation of the Bible, in order to make the Scriptures more accessible to the people. His majesty heartily agreed and the Assembly unanimously approved the motion. When Queen Elizabeth of England died in 1603, King James VI of Scotland took the vacant throne as King James I of England. Work began on the new Bible in 1607 and it was published in 1611. Another fascinating slice of heritage practically on our doorstep. This concluded our Doors Open tour and many new facts had been learned. Burntisland today is somewhat bucking the trend of declining town centres. The High Street thrives and several independent traders offer their wares. Perhaps the population size has helped here. Always too small for the chain stores to set up shop, no massive empty retail units were left behind without a purpose in the modern world. Whatever the reasons, it's good to hear about a Fife success story.

Free Again

After flying back from Germany at the crack of dawn (having travelled through the night), I slept for a few hours before venturing out to see the excellent tribute band Free Again. They bill their show as the Free & Bad Company Experience. These rock bands achieved considerable success in the 70s. Paul Rodgers (vocals) and Simon Kirke (drums) played in both. Free were active from 1968 until 1973. They released six studio albums and one live effort. Their worldwide hit All Right Now transcended the classic rock scene to become a stomper that everyone and their granny knows. After the band's demise, Rodgers and Kirke launched Bad Company and the hot streak continued, particularly in America.

When reproducing material performed originally by Paul Rodgers, you face the immediate problem of finding someone to sing to an incredible standard. Rodgers is regarded as one of the best rock vocalists of all time and it's a tough task for a tribute singer. Amazingly, Free Again have a suitable man in the ranks. Rosyth man Alan King does a fantastic job of interpreting the material and I was blown away when I saw Free Again a few years ago. I instantly thought this isn't a guy who has spent his life singing on the pub circuit. He must have serious credentials. A little digging revealed King had fronted the melodic rock band Walk on Fire, who signed a major deal in the late 80s and sold over 200,000 copies of their debut album. Unfortunately this wasn't enough to convince the paymasters to keep the band on. Promotion was an expensive business back then and if you didn't recoup, you were out. King went on to sing the title role in the musical version of Spartacus, alongside a cast that included Anthony Hopkins and Catherine Zeta-Jones. Four fifths of Free Again play in Hotel California - a leading Eagles tribute that has toured extensively in theatres for the last quarter of a century. Tonight's concert was at the Carnegie Hall in Dunfermline. Around 150 people were present. At £24 per ticket, that's a worthwhile night's work for a band that is essentially a side project. All the guys are great players and have known each other for a long time. Just as importantly, they are all massive fans of classic 70s rock. Guitarist and keyboard player Jim Bowie is the musical director for Hotel California and he put the Free Again show together. They opened up tonight with the eponymous Bad Company track, which set the tone for a great night's entertainment. Drummer Mark Anderson was in fine form behind the kit, playing the deceptively simple Simon Kirke parts. While Kirk's contributions were understated, Free featured a young bassist whose virtuosity was clear to see. Andy Fraser was a musical prodigy and a key writer for the band. His stunning solo on the extended workout Mr Big remains iconic to this day and Des Whitlie pulled it off remarkably well on stage tonight. Content to remain in the background for the entire gig, the other musicians moved aside to give Des his showcase spot. Spontaneous applause broke out among the audience towards the end of the complex bass solo. A reluctant hero! Fraser passed away in 2015 due to complications with AIDS. Not long beforehand, I met the man himself after a show at the Green Hotel, Kinross. Free guitarist Paul Kossoff was never seriously considered for Bad Company. He had descended into horrific drug use and died on a transatlantic flight at the shockingly young age of 25. Despite the appalling end, Koss could wring emotion from a guitar and a huge talent was lost to the world. Mick Ralphs (ex Mott the Hoople) took the guitar slot in Bad Company and is still with us, although highly unlikely to ever play again following a severe stroke.

Alongside Jim Bowie, Free Again's other guitarist is Calvin Laidlaw. Together they faithfully recreated the tones of Kossoff and Ralphs. The set brimmed with classics and a couple of left-field songs were thrown in for good measure. Although Rodgers and Kirke are still musically active (the former releasing an album last year), the time isn't far off when musicians from this era are no longer able (or around) to play. Tribute bands help keep the flame alive and let fans hear the material. It doesn't cost the earth to see them either. There was never an attempt to revive Free but Bad Company have reformed sporadically over the years with ever-changing line-ups. Original bassist Boz Burrell passed away in 2006 and there was even a version of the band without Rodgers. Moreover, they attracted much attention in the States with Brian Howe (now deceased) at the helm, although he was curiously airbrushed from history when Rodgers was eventually persuaded to re-join. Few vintage acts have kept the same personnel throughout their history. Indeed, Hotel California have had different musos playing the various personalities within the Eagles (who themselves weren't averse to the odd line-up change). If you like the music of Free and/or Bad Company, or even rock in general, go and see Free Again. You won't be disappointed. There is little point in me rattling off the songs they played and putting my tuppence in. Everyone has their own favourites.